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Old 08-12-2010, 12:46 PM
  #18276  
Hobbsy
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Thank goodness I had my waders handy.
Old 08-12-2010, 12:51 PM
  #18277  
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Might need a SCBA also before it is all over.

Regards,

Richard
Old 08-12-2010, 01:56 PM
  #18278  
Lightspeed1551
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I have a Ultra Stick .60 with a Saito .91 it rolls for 10 feet an then gos strait up. I love that engine. I recently had to do bearings and timing the cam was even easy. I love this engine.
Old 08-12-2010, 01:58 PM
  #18279  
mike early
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Nobody owns a saito and doesn't love it
Old 08-12-2010, 03:11 PM
  #18280  
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

Nitro doesn't do anything for fuel economy




No, but it sure does a lot against it! (smile)


Ed Cregger
Old 08-12-2010, 03:57 PM
  #18281  
NM2K
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ORIGINAL: Old Fart

I'm still waitin to hear that zero stroke engine joke ed


It wasn't a joke, OF. It was a bogus April Fool's magazine cover on one of our national Hot Rod Magazines back around 1969 or 1970. With everyone bringing out or creating auto engines with ever over square designs, they (the mag publishers) took the ball and ran for a field goal by going all the way and bringing out a bogus article on the "new" zero stroke engine. It (the cover and article) looked extremely convincing in its layout work and content. Perhaps I shouldn't admit to this, but I actually did think about its feasibility for a few micro seconds.

I'll do some exploring and see if I can find it. I'm sure that you, and others, would appreciate the humor.


Ed Cregger
Old 08-12-2010, 05:11 PM
  #18282  
Hobbsy
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Ed, that would akin to the article Cycle World ran about a motorcycle race between two bikes with one having such a short stroke it required about dozens of gears and the other having such a long stroke that the rider had to time his arrival at the track corners so the engine would not have a power stroke in the middle of the turn. It was tongue in cheek but very funny. I've been getting CW since it was born in 1962 and I was 20.
Old 08-12-2010, 06:25 PM
  #18283  
frets24
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ORIGINAL: retransit


ORIGINAL: Craig 01


ORIGINAL: Cherokee Flyer

As any bearing is not perfectly aligned when installed, at the first warming of the engine they will align with the crankshaft. This is the reason precision spindles are run in when they are re-assembled.

L.
I would be interested if you would take the time and explain the process of how the front bearing aligns itself with the crankshaft at the first warming of the engine.
I bet you're really sorry you asked! LOL

Bob

No doubt!
Old 08-12-2010, 07:38 PM
  #18284  
Craig 01
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ORIGINAL: frets24


ORIGINAL: retransit


ORIGINAL: Craig 01


ORIGINAL: Cherokee Flyer

As any bearing is not perfectly aligned when installed, at the first warming of the engine they will align with the crankshaft. This is the reason precision spindles are run in when they are re-assembled.

L.
I would be interested if you would take the time and explain the process of how the front bearing aligns itself with the crankshaft at the first warming of the engine.
I bet you're really sorry you asked! LOL

Bob

No doubt!
Not sorry i asked at all,is there a reason i should be?.As now all those whom were thinking there was a special process of seating in a bearing or bearings for model engines after reading Cherokee Flyers comment in post 18019 now realise there isnt,so long as one fits the bearing correctly thats all they have to worry about.
And by the way,thanks frets24 for answering with your detailed explanation for and on behalf of Cherokee Flyer.
Old 08-12-2010, 08:25 PM
  #18285  
retransit
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It's an attempt at humor Craig01. You remember that, don't you? It's usually accompanied with a laugh, something you can't get with a keyboard.

Bob
Old 08-12-2010, 09:36 PM
  #18286  
Craig 01
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Agreed,no worries bob [sm=wink_smile.gif]
Old 08-13-2010, 03:09 PM
  #18287  
Cherokee Flyer
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Just for giggles and grins, the next time you replace the bearings in an engine check the drag on the crank before you run it the first time and then after that first GENTLE run, you do do a easy run the first time after a bering change don't you? You will feel a diffrence, that is the alignement of the bearings, crank and crankcase. Oh yea, FRETS24 thanks.

L.

Sorry just the machine tool engineer in me.
Old 08-13-2010, 08:00 PM
  #18288  
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That sounds funny,bit like the old 125gp bikes and 10speed gearboxes.

Dave i'm about to lean my 182 off any tips on the lowspeed airbleed settings??
Old 08-13-2010, 08:09 PM
  #18289  
w8ye
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I found that my 182 was easy to set the low speed. Wasn't critical at all
Old 08-13-2010, 08:40 PM
  #18290  
Craig 01
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ORIGINAL: Cherokee Flyer

Just for giggles and grins, the next time you replace the bearings in an engine check the drag on the crank before you run it the first time and then after that first GENTLE run, you do do a easy run the first time after a bering change don't you? You will feel a diffrence, that is the alignement of the bearings, crank and crankcase. Oh yea, FRETS24 thanks.

L.

Sorry just the machine tool engineer in me.
Nope,dont notice that and have not long ago replaced the bearings in 6 Saitos as i remove the shields from the rear bearings wash the grease
from the rear bearing and re-oil i also lightly oil the lip on the front bearing seals.I wash out the rear bearing grease as it gives the drag you speak of and often leaves stains in the lower front case.Seems i'm more particular about fitting bearings correctly to begin with than you
I guess i must have learnt something in the 35+ years ive been playing with engines and during my 20+ years as a mechanic/service technician and what i do works for me.
A model engine that has drag due to its bearings mis-alignment prior to initial start which corrects itself after startup had its bearings incorrectly fitted to begin with.I would not attempt to start the engine with the misaligned bearing drag you speak of,i would correct the issue before further assembly of the engine initially.
I'll just carry on doing things my way and no doubt you will carry on doing things yourway

Reason for edit-Typo
Old 08-13-2010, 08:49 PM
  #18291  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Ed, that would akin to the article Cycle World ran about a motorcycle race between two bikes with one having such a short stroke it required about dozens of gears and the other having such a long stroke that the rider had to time his arrival at the track corners so the engine would not have a power stroke in the middle of the turn. It was tongue in cheek but very funny. I've been getting CW since it was born in 1962 and I was 20.
Actually the scariest bike I ever rode was an AJS 750ccc single cylinder English Trials bike with 4 speed tranny. It would break your leg if you hesitated at all on the kick start, kinda like forward propping a new Saito 180 and risking your fingers. And every time it fired on the big single cylinder at low speeds and gears it would leap like it was goosed. It was humongous, but spidery and very lightweight. Loved it!

Regards,

Richard
Old 08-13-2010, 09:43 PM
  #18292  
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Not looking for economy in Duration (AKA vertical drag racing) you have only 30 seconds to get as high as you can before attempting a flight of 7 minutes (in te preliminaries, 5 rounds) in the finals (fly off) the flight has to be longer so the higher you get under power the better. In Texaco it is all about fuel economy to get good height for a 10 minute flight followed by the finals where the longest flight wins. This minimal nitro (10%) for Texaco, plus big prop minimal revs,and 40% + for Duration and a prop change to get max power.
All good stuff
Old 08-13-2010, 09:50 PM
  #18293  
FNQFLYER
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On the bearing thing, on our Duration YS 63 any misalignment of the bearings / crankshaft causes a deteriation of the power output of the engine and experience has shown the only way to correct it is to disaasemble the engine and re seat the bearings.  The resultant loss of RPM while smal (a few hundred revs) may not seem much but it does reduce the overal life of that bearing set.  And I believe that this is the case with Saitos, me I make sure all my bearings installed during engine rebuilds are properly seated otherwise my old mentor (72 years old) gets right up me if I let any go and that is reason enough.
Old 08-13-2010, 10:11 PM
  #18294  
mike early
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I have had the rear bearing a wee bit crooked before and could feel it very distinctly when I spun the crankshaft. Rear bearings are pretty tightly fit into the crank case. I cannot understand how they would slide into the correct place by assembling the engine and starting it......maybe wear the bearings down so it feels smoother, eventually?
Old 08-13-2010, 11:06 PM
  #18295  
Craig 01
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And for good reason to as you have explained FNQFLYER
And is applicable to all our model engines running ball bearings no matter the manufacturer.
Some have a tighter case fit at room temp than others and expansion of the alloy casting at running temp may still have a firm grip on the bearings not allowing it to seat correctly,others at running temp will allow the bearings to move to a reseated running position.It comes down to type of alloy composition of the crankcase with respect to expansion with temperature and initial tolerances between the bearings and case and bearing to crankshaft.I have had bearings from the same manufacturer,same part number that fitted with slight resistance onto the crank and very tight fit to the crank and ones that fitted very loose.That loose fit bearing may very well fit nicely on another engines crank and vice versa with the tight bearing given they run the same part number bearing.
Best to fit them correctly initially before operating.
Old 08-14-2010, 04:47 AM
  #18296  
miker49
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  have a saito 100 in a hangar 9 p-47.runs great and flies well.problem is can't keep muffler tight.any suggestions? loctite or maybe copper [email protected]
Old 08-14-2010, 06:33 AM
  #18297  
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Try a softer exhaust mount and some teflon tape on the threads
Old 08-14-2010, 07:13 AM
  #18298  
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I use regular 30 weight motor oil on the threads. Start the engine, run a tank of fuel through it at all speeds, idle to full throttle. Shut the engine down and let it set for a day or two. Been using this method for 20 years and have never had a muffler come loose. I think this is stated in the instruction manual. Another possibility of a muffler coming loose is too soft of a motor mount. Use the recommended motor mount, not necessarily the one that comes in the kit.
Old 08-14-2010, 08:04 AM
  #18299  
Cherokee Flyer
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Craig 01
I am awed and humbled by your superior intelligence and knowledge. That will teach me to try to share knowledge with others on this site.


L.
Old 08-14-2010, 09:58 AM
  #18300  
mike early
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I don't know what the hell is going on.


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