Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I guess you recognise that plane as the Joss Stick you traded to me. It has worn a Webra .91 glow, a Webra .91 Diesel, a Fox .74 Diesel and even a Webra T4-.87. The firewall has been beefed up a couple of times due to too many different mounting holes. It soldiers on, but unfortunately not this year.

PS, you can plainly see the flairs on the 90 degree adapters that prevent them from breaking.

mike early

hey hey, celebrity sighting!!!

Does #1 still own a Saito?

[email protected]

To Space worm , wasn't looking for an engraved invite , just looking for info on "how to join" I dont consider myself a dummy and don't like being treated like one


Bob A

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

need some starting points for the needles on my FA-130T, tried to fire it up tonight but one glow driver was dead, still got both cylinders going switching one back and forth but tuning was way off...so a starting point would be helpful, elevation here is about 490 feet, and its cold, maybe 50-60 degrees out...thanks in advance, not sure what I'd do without this thread...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

High speed needles about 3

Air bleeds at half way across the bleed holes

Tune each side to peak individually

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

air bleeds??? these carbs appear to have low speed needles in the end of the barrels??? which are the air bleeds, theres the highs, the lows? and then two small phillips head screws with springs that look like idle stop screws...

the pope

I think what Old Farty Pants is refering to is there use to be a guy around here that was so OS obsesed that he would sooner poke out his own eyes and set fire to his grandma rather then use another brand of engine. Guess what his name was? Cheers from the pope

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I assumed it was made like a 182T. The 130T hasn't been around in about 17 yrs.

Show me a picture of the carb

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

ill have to get one tomorrow, the other screws are definitely and idle stop screw, so its a high speed needle and the low speed in the end of the barrel...yeah its an old mill but the little it ran it seemed pretty strong, way enough for my cub...all the instructions say is start at 5 turns on the highs which seems way excessive, and also it seemed way way rich...oiled my shoe, arm, and front yard in a hurry...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I don't ever look up those initial needle settings. I start them up. If they run rich - I lean them out to where they sound the way I want.

If too lean they usually don't start.

My 182T was given to me as junk. I replaced a cylinder, rocker arms and the crankcase with new bearings. I started it up and set the needles - never gave it a thought?

I was thinking the 182 was a derivative of the 130 and i know the 130 has "65" cylinders and the 182 has "91" cylinders.

Rudolph Hart

Thanks for being kind mate

Rudolph Hart

I agree set and forget they run strong and stable.

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

I'll have to give it another try tomorrow since I work late tonight, trying to do it with one glow driver was a pain and didn't even expect to get it running with just one but both cylinders lit, then I was trying to tweak the needles in the dark...I'm not used to having two carbs to deal with, but it's definitely cool having a twin on there

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

For the record on Satio needle valves

With the single cylinder engines up through the 125 but not the 120 with the Low speed mixture needle in the center of the throttle arm

The high speed needle initial setting is 3 turns and on the old ones with a steel throttle arm, the low speed is set even with the surface of the throttle arm. The one with the plastic throttle arm, the factory setting was even with the throttle arm but they actually ran better about 1 mm below the surface of the throttle arm.

On the 120, 150, 180, and 220, the low speed was the same but the high speed should be out about 5 turns

FNQFLYER

No they look like a right angle pipe fitting that you would screw into a hydraulic component

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You are barking at the wrong tree with these for they only come in 12mm, 14mm, and 15mm sizes.

In spite of their sturdy look, they are practically worthless for they have a sharp non filleted radius near the external threads and then break when you start the engine.

We need elbows that are 10mm for the 60T, 90TS, and 100T twins.

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

here are the best pics I could get without removing the engine...one of the bottom and one of the top of the carbs...the low end are in the aluminum throttle arm pieces that are on the barrels, highs seem fairly far out at 5 turns, almost off the detents, but those I can figure out no problem, just would like to get the lows somewhere close before trying to start it again, rather than blow raw fuel all over everything like last time I fired it up...

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Vert, you can't even think about the LS needles until the HighSpeed needles are set at peak. Otherwise you'll end up chasing the needles until eternity goes by twice. Try the HS needles at about 2.5 to 3 turns to start out.

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

ok, sounds good, thanks again...I'll give it a try tomorrow when I get some time

mike early

Oh my. I had high hopes for those new elbows.

Are they cast?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They look good don't they?

FlyguyXII

My Feedback: (2)

I'm looking for any info on the 1.30. I have one new in box that I am looking to put on a top flite seafury and have been told that it may not have enough oomph for this particular model. I'm not really even sure what size prop to run as the paper work seems to have been misplaced over the years. Any help would be greatly appreciated

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

Here is the Clarence Lee review of the 130T.


http://www.rcmplans.com/issues/reque...021989-1-1.pdf

spaceworm

Is that a crack in the engine mount in the left picture, or just the shear marks from the stamping?

Best regards, Richard

mike early

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAIEG57T



57cc Gas Twin Engine