w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The low speed mixture may be off.

If it stops when you move the throttle, it must be lean?

FNQFLYER

Had same problem found that a bearing change worked wonders, but like you I would play with the low end needle first

earlwb

I have a couple of 40a engines in my F82 Twin Mustang and I am running 11x6 Master Airscrew props on them. They work just fine. yes I agree a 10x4 sounds like a waste unless it is on a small 20 size 3D plane of some sort, where you don't fly fast anyway. The low pitch prop allows for slower speeds and faster throttle response which is handy for various manuevers like hovering, etc.

earlwb

have you checked the valve gaps and adjusted them if needed?
four stroke engines tend to start doing funky things when the valve gaps close up towards a zero gap or worse.
Dying at idle is one symptom.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Earl, that sure is a fine looking F82

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Well, my 125 arrived today. Just as an FYI, it's still referred to as a 125a on the website and in the 2009 manual that came with the engine. However, on the right hand mounting lug the letter 'C' is stamped on it.

Any thoughts? I can't find any references to a 125 "B" or "C" anywhere on the web..... But you guys are more in the know than the general public.

Bob

dash008

My Feedback: (1)

I have a Saito .91 on a Pulse 60 turning a 14x6 APC prop. Can someone suggest an aluminum spinner for this combination? I have never owned a metal spinner but this engine shredded the plastic one that came with the model. What size/brand do you recommend?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The minimum size spinner for this size engine usually amounts to being a 2 1/2"

I usually buy the Dave Brown brand from Tower Hobbies after shopping around.

FNQFLYER

Been reading the Saito gas thread and back (way back) through some of these threads and either I am imagining it or do I detect a lack of understanding on the part of some people as to the requirement to run in "gently" these engines.  By that I mean both the glo and gas engines.
When I visited Saito many years ago (station engineer for MAS at the time, only for a short time) I was told by the engineers that new engines should be run as rich as possible during the "break in period" and "the engine would tell you when to begin the leaning out process".  This usually took about 2 hours of running to achieve the desired 2 turns out on the high speed needle.  For the record I used props in the mid range of the suggested sizes for the relative engine.
In my case I would bench run the engine for between 30 minutes and 1 hour (depending on the weather) and then get airborne time on the engine always ensuring that there was a trail of smoke during this period.  Sure I cribbed some times but that was the broad procedure and I have never yet had a failure.  When I develop the required amount of intestinal fortitude I will apply the same process to the gas engines and report back.
Until then I would appreciate comments on the above, should any one be interested 

Rudolph Hart

Happy new year craig and all,yes the doubled over cellophane works great for valve clearances.Your physio must be the kind of guys that threw christians to the lions way back when.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Even so, After running the first tank as rich as possible, I then try to get the needles set decent enough to fly. Then I prefer to do the majority of the 2 hour break in up the air still on the rich side. I don't feel that running as rich as possible for two hours is going to do anything but use up a lot of glow fuel in a big Saito.

The bigger the Saito, the longer it takes to get it broken in. A Saito 180 may not truely free up for 6 hours running? The 180 burns 55 cc/ min (1.86 oz) even when leaned out.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Hi all, Have a FA60T & was wondering if it might be enuf engine for a Sig Smith Mini Plane. Know everyone suggest a Cub, but already have one of them with an OS40FP diesel conversion. Don't need "unlimted verticle", but would like a good flyer with at least "average" aerobatics. Many Thanx for your thoughts

T-man49 in Alabama

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

I think it is an inspired choice. The minismith is designed for a 40 two stroke.
John

FNQFLYER

Re running in, yes I agree air time is the best time and as I said most of my engines get airborne some time between 30 minutes and 60 minutes of engine depends on the engine, and they do then last well. 
On competition engines they are "run in " after blue printing (which is why I usually buy 2 of any type when I get a new type engine (that is say I have purchased a 56 for the first time for competition, I bought 2 plus extra crank, rod and piston) and if the first one works the other gets put away for 'a rainy day"  

dalemilam58

Well I've looked almost everywhere to find an answer...I purchased a Saito 50 to put in a LT-40...the motor is slightly used...it is missing a valve cover bolt...does anyone know where I can get one? This makes my second Saito in my hanger the other one is a 91 on a PT-22 (Ryan STA) so make me a member...lol

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

For simple things like nuts and bolts, I just go to my local Ace hardware. They've got a great selection of metric hardware.

dalemilam58

will they have them that small?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have to buy these from Horizon Hobby as the hardware stores do not have then that small diameter.

dalemilam58

do you happen to know what size they are?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Sorry but I never measured them

earlwb

In many of the larger local hobby shop stores that have RC cars and RC helicopters, you normally can find the odd sized metric screws. These screws are commonly used in Helicopters. heli's have jillions of screws and nuts used on them.
Of course if you only have the small LHS's then that is a problem.
I looked at one of my old Saitos and the valve cover screws look like 2.5mm screws.
It is the four long screws in this pic of the cylinder screw set on the Horizon website:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SAI5014

dalemilam58

OK Thanks...I'll just get the set of screws and hope for the best....I still have a few months before flying weather...

Craig 01

Go to your local bolt/fastener supplier and ask for a cap head screw 2.5mm x .45mm x 15mm.It is a standard size.They would retail for about 15 cents au each.
Happy New Year to you as well Old Fart,Nah,the physio aint that bad,he just wants to get the shoulder working good again,dont want no "frozen shoulder" as they call it.

earlwb

I just got done replacing the bearings in my old Saito 80 engine. last weekend, it sort of had a noticeable whine to it when running. With my bad hearing, if I can hear it, it must have woke up all the cats and dogs in the area. I had purchasd this engine way back around 1990 and have been using it ever since. I am sorta surprised that the bearings lasted this long considering how many people seem to have bearing issues with any engine, not just Saito.

The rear bearing wasn't too bad, although seemingly smooth it was making a loud rolling kind of noise when you spun it. The front bearing was shot, a little rough and noisy, I think there was no lube inside anymore. i haven't had time to bench run it yet to make sure I got the camshaft timing correct or not. When I went to remove the bearings, the crankshaft came out but the bearings stayed in, which was a worrying thing. But a little judicious useage of a brass rod and a small hammer with the crankcase heated up got them out. I cleaned off the brown gunk where the main bearing would go, as the new bearing wouldn't fit otherwise. it is that small section about 1/4 inch wide in between the crank journal and the camshaft gear teeth. The new bearings and crankshaft slipped back in Ok, no problems.

I use a Hakko hot air gun, intended for heat shrink tubing, to heat up the engine crankcase with. That way I can work indoors. Using a propane torch indoors is a bit too risky.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Looks rather typical for an engine where rusty bearings have first become evident.