Sharpeye22

Yes I was thinking the same. I was going to try some MEK or other strong solventto soften it up hopefully before trying what you suggested.

earlwb

Isn't the red stuff permanent locktite like stuff? Of do you think it is the less permanent blue locktite, except red in color?
If permanent locktite stuff, you have to heat the screw until it is very very hot, like getting near red hot, in order to break down the permanent red locktite.

The small or tiny chisel or punch method works. You might be able to carefully drill a small hole in the center of the screw, then tap in a small allen wrench and unscrew it. If you have a small reverse drill bit, you can carefully start drilling the center of the screw, and usually, the screw will unscrew itself in the process. If the screw is sticking up slightly, you can sometimes use a dremel wire cutting disk and cut a small slot in the screw for a jeweler's screwdriver. Sometimes the chisel or punch works to cut a small slot enough for a screw driver to catch and unscrew the screw too.

Sharpeye22

Iam not sure but when my replacement bolts get here I can better determine that. I think though that is is not the permenate type for it is applyed by Saito to the bolt and I am sure they would want to be able to repair an engine if something like this happened.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Blue is the temporary red is permanent and that looks like orange which is more of a sealant . #574 Loc-tite

http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93789_574EN.pdf

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

Sharpeye, If the chisel method doesn't work I would cut a slot for a jewelers screw driver like earlwb mentioned. Also, heat the area around the screw to make it easier to get out.

Craig 01

This is a job for someone who knows what they are doing as you can find yourself paying more than just the cost of a capscrew if you bork it.
The remaining screw needs to be drilled dead centre,then a flat blade jewellers screw driver or similar of good quality is tapped into the hole just enough to bite so of course the drilled hole is only slightly smaller than the blade on the screw driver and dont drill the hole to large to begin with.Then heat with a very fine flame from a pencil type butane torch the alloy surrounding the brocken screw to soften the thread lock compound and then screw the broken piece out.The only thing securing the broken screw is the thread compond so when heated sufficiently it will screw out easily,dont overheat it,just enough so the screw can be wound back out.
As a side note,these screws wind out easily if heat from a 40/60 watt iron is applied first before removal.

FNQFLYER

Ok guys with regards to the broken stud, check out the Snap on catalogue for stud / screw removal tools all good stuff or go to your local tool store and buy the most suitable sized EZ out extractor and the correct drill (there is usually a chart to guide you.  If not access the Pratt and Whitney engineers mechanics book or the N.I.T  engineers guides they have all the good guts on this.  You have to be careful drilling the hole though talk to your local machinist (I use a pdestal drill for this job)
Re the locktite they make good "debonder" buy and use as per directions.
I also have the appropriate tap for the screw and run it down the hole after I extract the broken bit.
There you have it all for free I usually charge a case of Bundy and Cola for that data

FNQFLYER

N1EDM, you are right I did appear to have a multitude of problems with that b of an engine and at the time I was at the first point of a 6,000k round competition (From Cairns to Canowindra with a stop at Dalby)  I was in my mates workshop when we stripped it and those were the things we had to do to get it running, and to rub salt into the wound he used it to get a second in one of the comps he entered after the rebuild.  But it does go well now.
Re the valves, we cleaned and re seated them and put new springs under the rockers.

Craig 01

If your going to use screw extractor/ezy outs go for the square bevelled edge types and not reverse spiral types,Reverse spiral types expand the drilled bolt and help to make the job more difficult if not impossible on these smaller bolts.Why they still have a market for the reverse spiral type extractor is beyond me.In my experience,the square bevelled edge type are superior,but,for a one off job the way i described earlier works a treat.

cherry629

My Feedback: (29)

Hey Guys,got a???,have a Saito 45 what size prop will i need,just put it in a BUSA Pheaton II it's heave at 8#,don't think it's enoght
motor. Thanks Les

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I used an 11 X 6 on the Saito 45

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

As to the broken screw in the motor, Send it in to Saito. IF they break it, the replace it. You break it, you replace it. Just a suggestion

lumpy649

My Feedback: (75)

If it is in fact the permanent locktite used, it can be released by using heat, I believe it's @ 400 degrees that softens it. Put the whole head in the oven and bring up to temp. Also, if you have a drill press, you can use left handed drill bits, sometimes just the action of the drill bit cutting left hand will bring out the broken stud.
Good Luck

spaceworm

Maybe contact Clarence Lee? He is the most capable person I know in matters like this. Good luck.

Sincerely, Richard, Club Saito #635

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

FNQFLYER, thanks for that update... sorry about the Salt in the Wound

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

FNQFLYER, thanks for the added information... glad that it all got sorted out for you.

As for extracting the screw in the crankcase, this might not be of much help but here goes.

First, I would mount this onto a block of wood so that it could be clamped in a vise or to a benchtop to keep it from moving.

I would also try 'nudging' the screw out with that chisel as previously described, but I wonder if a little heat with a torch, just to soften things up, might be some help?

Just my $.02

Bob

FNQFLYER

Yep you are right the spiral EZ out does expand (yto a limited degree) the bolt but all you are trying to do is loosen the bolt so it will come out.  Using those toys is the preferred method for P&W and RR engines and I have yet to have any real problems.  THe only exception is if the EZ out has lost the spiral or is the wrong size for the hole drilled.  There are lots of ways around this but they are better not discussed here.
BTB my mentot (all of 71) did a job similar to this on the w/end with some gear I had acquired at a local engineering supply place up here.  The idea of heating the cylinder during extraction bears some thought though will have to consider tat should I have to do the extraction thing some time soon.

Now for a bit of "late breaking news"  We have a little bit of weather heading our way a Force 3 rising to possible force 5+ cyclone  (YASI) that is due to make its presence felt on the QLD coast (the greater majority of it area effected from Cooktown to Maryborough) so I probably won't be around for a while.  If you are interested have a look on the BOM site or the US navy or the ocean equivalent of NASA (cannot ever remember those intials, so catch ya later guys. 
BTB I have suitable suplies laid up petrol for the genny, 2 doz bottles of good white wine a carton of Bundy and Cola and food of course and gas for the Barby
Talk to you soonest 

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Here is one map of the hurricane path: http://www.wunderground.com/tropical.../sp201111.html

It's about halfway down page, and Cairnes seems to be the target for now. Good luck.

earlwb

One other thought, was on some complicated and expensive aluminum parts, we had used some nitric acid to dissolve the bolt or screw that broke off inside. I build up a wax dam around the part and dribbled in some nitric acid and let it eat away at the ferrous metal bolt or screw. repeated it a few times and it dissolved the screw or bolt for me.
Some other acids work too. Aluminum tends to form a hard oxide layer on the surface that protects it from certain corrosive acids. But you have to test the acid on a small unobtrusive surface or place on the aluminum part first. Just in case some of the other alloy metals or substances in the aluminum will react with the acid or not. I have seen some model engine crankcases that were made out of something more like pewter than aluminum before.
A old machinist turned me on to this trick years ago.
Anyway I saved a couple of $2,500 aluminum items with it years ago. it was also handy for when you break off that small tap on the last of the twenty holes you were threading.
Do it outside and only use a small amount at a time and do not inhale the fumes either.

FNQFLYER

blw, now I know where our TV station gets its data from but if you want better try bom.com.au it is the oficial weather site for OZ.  The predictons as off 0300 show it moving north away from Townsville towards us in Cairns but you never know with these things so we watch and wait, bit more yard work today and I'll secure my shed and then fingers crossed
Catch ya

rglgatortail

My Feedback: (7)

Hi I would like to see if I can be in Club Saito? I have a Top Flight 1/7 scale P-51 Mustang. I have a Saito 1.15 up front and the plane is guided from Futaba and all Futaba Servos. The plane is a nice flying plane with nice power but not unlimited power.

Thanks
Robert

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I bet you meant bom.gov.au. Good luck in hunkering down.

rglgatortail- you are member #724

FNQFLYER

Yep you got it right, been monitoring it while tidying up the yard, still a bit to do if only I can stop the concerned citizens ringing me to see how I am.  Cairns will shut down tomorrow, I am a bit worried about the capability of our lady Mayor to handle all of this and of course there will be the never ending procession of politicians after the fact, though maybe not seeing as how the local paper has discovered $700,000 in undisbursed funds from te Cyclone Larry appeal that were raised nearly 7 years ago.  Lots of cover up etc you don't want to know but assumiong we survive with minimum damage and a 48 hour black out we are entitled to a $1000 grant per adult (least wise the SE corner got that) which just could mean a couple of new model engines.
Seriously though people here are worried (mostly mexicans people from south of the border) and rightly so I think this time, all I want is for the bloody thing to pass as far south as possible (thus we are on the right side of it) and the impact will be greatly reduced, any way fingers crossed and all that
Catch Ya

Craig 01

Thanks mate
Seriously,wherever it crosses i can only hope it does minimal damage and all are safe from harm.

FNQFLYER

Hey Craig pardon my apparent happiness but that cyclone is gradually moving south as of the 802 bulletin te damage path has contracted to Cairns / Ingham basically but the actual path is moving closer to Innisfail (and a very good friends place at Mena Creek).  Any movement away from here is good for us and now we are on the north side so that is an improvement.
The two women our mayor (Auntie Val) who is totally at sea and ineffectua and Captain Bligh have been hounding us on the idiot box enoygh to turn a guy to DVD's.
Any way the storm surge thingy has been down graded for us in Cairns especially on the northern beaches but time will tell. We are staying (we are on the highest point at Holloways so if all else we can surf the house to my mates place at Redlynch
Now my hope is no lightening (shouldn't be) cause the last thing I want is for something like that to hit the shed.  All the spare fuel for the car, generator, chain saw and the model a/c would make a very big bang if it went off
Cath Ya later