w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I bought mine about 5 years ago and it was half that price.

The problem with the arbor press is that it is very heavy and shipping costs are expensive.

earlwb

I bought my Arbor Press at out local Harbor Freight Tools store a number of years ago.
Much cheaper to buy locally to avoid the shipping costs. They are quite heavy.

I haven't had to use it on my model engines yet. But it is likely the best way to do it.
Ideally you do not want to tap in on the inner race or hammer on them, or press on them, only the outer race to seat bearings.
it avoids causing little peen pits on the inner and outer races.

spaceworm

You could use a large bolt and nut to draw the bearing into place. As has been said, do not apply force to the inner race of either the front or rear bearing, make a tube to fit over the inner race and push only on the outer race. I have found that large deep sockets sometimes will work. Re the tight feel of the assembled bearings, they may be cocked a bit. There was a comment here on RCU on how to make sure the bearings are seated square and all. Maybe do a search, or someone will find it for you. Or, maybe your crank is bent?

Good luck.

Regards, Richard

earlwb

You know I forgot all about the drawbar method of seating bearings. it is great you remembered and brought it up.

rickbrad

My Feedback: (30)

Yes I am also enlightened by the drawbar method. That could work in lots of situations.

spaceworm

I am glad you found it useful. Also, to remove the rear bearing in a Saito 180, you can use an expansion bolt for concrete. I found the 1/2 inch size a close fit to the inside race of the Saito 180 rear bearing. Just insert it so the expansion part is inside the inner race, tighten the nut on the bolt to expand the expansion sleeve, and then use a gear puller to pull the bearing out. Only use this for bearings you intend to replace as it pulls on the inner race which is not a good idea for bearigs to be used/reused. The problem with the 180 rear bearing is that there is no step in front of the bearing in the case behind which to get puller fingers. And even if there was a step, you would still have to pull on the inner race.

Better than the puller is to heat the case/bearing assembly with a heat gun just around the case where the bearing is, and then whack it on it's backside on a piece of wood to pull the bearing out by inertia. Works on bullets in loaded shells also. (without the heatgun of course). [8D]

Regards, Richard

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

I wish I knew about that arbor press a few days ago but then hopefully I won't have to go through this again.

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

Are there different versions of the Saito 1.25?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

According to Horizon and no more than they pay attention to the details, there is only one Saito 125 and that is the 125a.

But a couple years ago, Saito adapted the cylinder from the Saito FG-20 gasoline engine to the 125. We refer to these engines as the 125b though it still says 125a on the box, if you look at the right hand motor mount lug, there is a "B" or "C" on the lug instead of an "A" like on the first model.

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

Evidentially, mine's an "A" model. Is there any difference in performance of the "B" model with the FG-20 head?

Thanks for the info.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I think the "B" has more power.

The valves are at a different angle and the valve covers are farther apart.

You can put the new cylinder on your "A" engine crankcase

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

I'm not sure that changing the cylinder would be cost effective. Just the cylinder alone costs $116. With the other necessary parts the cost could be very high.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI125A01A

Does anyone know how much additional power the "B" model makes compared to the "A"?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've changed some over for people. All you need is just the cylinder. These were changed because the old one was damaged.

But The old valves are peened over at the stem tips and this has to be honed away before sticking the old valves in a new cylinder.

I have three of the early model and then two of the gas engines

charlie1960

Color me impressed. My 1.00 has sat homeless for i know over a year.
I mounted it on my Skybolt and filled the tank. Primed the fuel lines by turning the prop 4 or 5 times with my finger over the muffler.
Attached my glow sticker gizmo. And bumped it with the starter.
And off it went. Ran like the last day i flew it.

Now, tomorrow may be a different story.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Are there any differences between the "B" and the "C"? I got the "C" for Christmas.

Thanks,

Bob

FNQFLYER

Ok guys, I guess I caused a stir with that 2lb ball pien hammer bit, but yes I do use it regularly.  I have at home a suitably turned arbor that one goes through the rear bearing and is long enough to go through the front one that is installed already.  This is put over a block of wood with a suitable sized hole drilled through it to accomodate the crankshaft.  This is(the block of wood) put onto a vice  and then the arbor is hit with the hammer or one of two presses that I have, one hydraulic with a 20 ton capacity and the other a hand press (bought from the man's toy shop in Townsville)  and suitable pressure applied to the arbor to seat the bearing.
I mentioned the hammer because actually using a big hammer carefully( that is 1 or 2 taps) is better than multiple hits with a 1/2 pound version.  Was taught this by an old foreman of mine at Ansett who never used anything less than a 20 pound sledge hammer when working on Boeing landing gears.  Consider the following, true story and I can get the necessary testimonials) while working at Malaysian I had 4 737 main landing gear trunnions (the section the gear pivots on and is threaded) destroyed because te local engineers persisted on both extracting and
re installing this component with a 2 pound BP hammer. It usually took them 2 days to extract it and 1 day to install.  Us ex Ansett guys took total time 2 hours x 2 men using a 20 pound hammer for the final bit of removing the trunion from the rear spar a case of 2 to 3 hits and the gear leg was on the ground, and no damage. 
Though I must admit I have found the 2 pound hammer is a bit of overkill when try to adjust a servo a 1/2 pound ususlly works just as well.
Ah bush mechanics at its best
Just blame it on the wet season it all gets to us after a while

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I do not know of any?

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the good information. Have you been able to make a comparison between the two different heads? I don't plan to change the cylinder because my motor appears to be very new but I'm curious if the "B" makes more power.

Rudolph Hart

t's all in fun mate

Rudolph Hart

ZAKKLY

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the reply

Bob

JohnB96041

No, No, Bob. An expert is a little drip under pressure. Ha

FNQFLYER

To continue the hammer saga I have just solved a problem I was having with and out runner electric motor.  A calibrated blow with a 2 pound ball pien hammer applied to the cylinder that passes for motive power source removed all my frustrations and gave me a degree of extreme satisfaction.  Never been able to achieve that with an OS engine and never had the desire to with a Saito

Rudolph Hart

I'll bet you raised s sweat swinging that hammer,was the motor plugged into the battery and full throttle at the time of impact?and do lipo's smoke up when you smash them with the two pound ball pein at the same time??

mono wing

Nuff said