Nikolas K

I am glad that the issue with the plastic backplate was cleared out in FA-82b. Now a metal backplate and all problems are gone.[8D][8D]

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

The plastic backplate leak issue is really a non issue. It does't matter if it leaks on an atmospherically inducted four-stroke engine. As pointed out, the carb mounting to the plastic backplate and the intake manifold tubing going into the cylinder head are the real problem. With the backplate moving with vibration and heat that is caused by running, the point where the intake tubing inserts into the cylinder head can require quite a bit more than normal maintenance. Maintenance that is not difficult or expensive to do, but maintenance that does require the operator's attention periodically.

I hate plastic pieces on any type of engine, but especially model glow engines. I'd rather pay an additional dollar or two more for relatively stable metal pieces instea of plastic.


Ed, NM2K

the pope

Howdy I have just bought another 82b and noticed the breather hole is much smaller then the a version. I also got the 40 and its breather is much bigger than the the 82 , does anyone know whats up with dat ? Cheers the pope

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Saito has had a problem with the breather nipples being partially closed by the cut off tool during manufacture

Take a ice pick or scribe and ream it out to full size or you will loose power.

Rudolph Hart

Thanks first i've heard of that problem with saitos anybody blown the front housing off an engine yet?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Nah, if the vent is blocked the oil will just come out around the front bearing or around the cam cover gasket or both. When you run across what Jim described that condition is usually accompanied by a high pitched whistling sound. More than one bearing has been foolishly changed because of that whistle.

mike early

What might cause a hanging idle?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Too rich LS needle which cools the plug over a few seconds time, draggy throttle setup or too lean LS needle but this usually results in the engine quitting at idle when fuel level gets below half tank.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

With some engines, a crankcase, or in this case, an intake manifold leak, and a rich carb can cause similar problems. But that's sort of what you said, isn't it? (smile)


Ed Cregger

rickbrad

My Feedback: (30)

I ran a tank through my relatively new Saito 65 yesterday.  I bought it used but I was told it had been bench ran and then oiled and put away.  By all appearances, this seems to be an accurate description.

I mounted a 13 X 6 prop and was able to lean the high speed out to getting about 8800 rpm or so.  So I backed that off to around 8500 to keep it a little rich for proper lubrication.

However, I cannot get the thing to idle reliably below about 3000 rpm.  This seems high and I was just wondering what low end idle you guys think I should be able to get eventually when the engine is properly ran-in.

Any input is appreciated.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You get the 65 broken in, needles adjusted, and it should idle better and run faster on the top end.

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

My saito .65 took awhile to break in, once it did the idle was very nice and I still have the original glow plug in it, I think it is a McCoy.

You can also try a OS F plug and a heavier APC 13X6 prop for a lower idle. With the apc 13x6 my old .65 (satin chrome valve covers *old*) turns just over 10K on 10% omega fuel.

FNQFLYER

Old Fart when it comes to torque loading on screws and bolts I used one of two methods
a/ Use the Mexican Torque wrench (vise grips) and continue until the bolt head is rounded off thus indicating correct torque load on said boltb/ b/Calibrated clicks of the right arm elbow for finer work usually 1 or 2 clinks of the elbow achieved the desired result 
 

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I think there were two plastic compounds shipped with the 72. Mine had the original backplate wIthout flat washers. Both versions warped quickly on mine. The engine caused a lot of grief for me and Jim. Once I used thread locker on the mounting screws, RTV at the intake/manifold, and used flat washers it ran like a champ and has become one of my favorite engines. It just took a long time to get there and the &@@$$$ backplate is ready for the trash.

rickbrad

My Feedback: (30)

What idle speed should I eventually be able to attain?  I just don't want my plane(s) to taxi away from me in less than a 15 mph wind!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Rick, when setting up the low speed needle make sure the HS needle is at absolute peak or you'll end up chasing both forever. 8,800 sounds a little low for the .65. 2,000 rpm idle is easily attainable.

the pope

Spot on advice there W8ye I pulled the nipple and sure enough the hole wasnt drilled all the way through. There was a 125 at the field on the weekend that made the funny noise mentioned which had everyone stumped. I ve past on the info and would be interested to see if this was his prob. too.Thanks again from the pope

unclewil

I purchased a used 91 in 06 and still flying with it, also own a 82 saito, both run excellent and only had a couple dead sticks with the 91, bad glowplug once and improper adjustment of carb, gave it a couple clicks of the high and didnt let me down, i feel they are one of the BEST 4 STROKES money can buy, got others switching over aswell.

Kostas1

Indeed they are!

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

Flew my Saito 115 with a APC 16x6 @ 9000 max, adj to 8800 today. Great prop. It pulled a Pulse 125 around nicely. Not quite unlimited vert, but would climb out at about 60-65 deg angle. 17 min of flight time on 16oz tank and started with one back flip...EVERY time!

Very happy with it. Scoot

Nikolas K

Ok, I am a little confused and I will tell you why: it is about tappet gap adjustment on my Saito FA-82b.

The instruction manual supplied with the engine must be original from Saito company.Anyway, concerning tappet adjustment it says:

"....then, make adjustment using attached spanner and hexagonal wrench so that it {the gap} comes indefinitely close to zero while the compression exist in the position..."

and below it states also:

"In case of actual automobile engine, small gap is provided by anticipating valve elongation.However, in the case of our engine, gap becomes larger during operation as elongation of cylinder (aluminum) is larger than that of the valve, therefore, the gap must be set indefinitely close to zero while the engine is cold."

Now, in the manual supplied by the american distributor, Horizon Hobby, it states that you must use two gauges and adjust the gap between 0.03 and 0.1mm.
In other words, the Japanese instructions say not to use a minimum gauge (0.03mm) but adjust zero gap instead, whereas the american distributor calls for adjusting the gap at least 0.03mm. The same instructions as the american distributor ones I found in the site http://saito-engines.info/ concerning valves adjustment.

Whom should I follow?Should I use a minimum 0.03mm gauge or adjust to zero gap?

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

I learned from this thread that .0015 cold. I set mine at .0015 and it seams to work good. If you search the subject in this thread, you will find lots of info.

Nikolas K

You mean .0015 inches of course, which makes it 0.03mm.Maybe I should buy a 0.03mm gauge then?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Nik, that guage supplied with Saito engines is .004" and the guage supplied with Enyas is .002".

JoseN

Nikolas:

Using the OS 4-stroke engine gauges you will get a better and more accurate gap. In my experience 0.0015" to 0.004" is fine. Please see the attached instruccions.

Jose
Club memeber #733