cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

And I really have been running these engines for maybe 5 years or more just not a lot. I have several of them and have broken in a couple of them, set valves and have set the LS needle on one that was acting up. I have a few of them. 2 72's, 2 56's, a 40 and 45, 65. Have only flown 4 of them. But love them. Got a couple of OS 4 strokes too. Is that okay to say here? I cut my teeth on 40 and 46 OS 2 strokes and still have a few of those too. I've got to get another running before long too as I have a new Seamaster in the box I have to get on the water. I crashed mine and my friend had one new in the box he sold me.

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks, man you are fast.... I feel like I need to pay you! That was it the needle LS was out maybe a 32nd and it's the plastic one so I'll turn it in and start over tomorrow. I bought a Cherokee (Great Planes) for $50 at Joe Nall and it's finished cept for breaking in this engine. I maybe be able to fly it this weekend now.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Cub floater- I'll get you a club number when I get back online at my computer.

The Raven

While you're looking into that, would you mind looking up my number (if any)? I can't recall if I had one.

the pope

Howdy all , I have a 40 and a 100 twin and want to build some ugly stiks. What wingspan for each? I dont want the max span they could handle more like the min wingspan I can get away with . Cheers the pope

earlwb

If the Saito 40 is the older model and not the newer FA-40A model then you are looking for a 20 to 30 size ugly stick type of plane for the engine.
The FA-40A may fly a smaller .40 size ugly stick Ok. But there are some larger .50 size ugly stick types of planes that would be too large though.

Your 100 twin would work good in a World Models SuperStunts .60 type of Ugly stick plane. big wing span and lots of wing area but it is still really light in weight. They are sold by many stores for example: http://www.duanesplanes.com.au/produ...?productid=887

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Well now I can't even get it to start. Once in a while it will act like it wants to but quits. Tried all the manual touble shooting suggestions but still no luck. I even screwed in the LS needle a little more and out. Also HS to 2 turns and 3. Still no luck. Only thing I can think of now is the fuel tank could be too low for getting fuel in the carb but once primed it should still start. I'm begining to wonder if i was sold a bad engine. It was so long ago that I don't even remember who I bought it from. Onlyl problem with it was he had put plier teeth marks on the face plate getting the prop off and I told him I didn't mind that. Seem like an honest enough guy on the phone but don't remember his story on why he was selling it. I hope not because he couldn't get it to run. I'm glad I took the engine off and put it on the test stand before trying all this or I would have torn up the plane by now. I'm going to start all over and check everything valves included before trying again. Any other suggestions? I've never had any kind of probelms with Saitos like this before. Thanks for any tips.

Jim

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

and the few times I did actually get it to start it would run for maybe 4 to 10 seconds and then quit. And the throttle would not affect it. Very puzzleing. What should I try next?

mike early

bad fuel? clogged needle valve? glow plug?

mike early

My Hanging Idle was due to a worn o-ring at the intake manifold.

Sharpeye22

Mike beat me to it. To check the plug, pull the glow plug and put a glow starter on it to ensure it is glowing brightly. To check for clogged needle valve. Hook a tube to the inlet nipple open the throttle all the way, back out the high speed needle most of the way but leave it installed, and blow on the tubing. I use a fueling bulb and squeeze fuel through it to clear it because most of the time it is clogged with gelled castro oil.

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

Cant add a poll inside of this thread, but I will ask. Im running Saito 20/20 from power master but I was wondering about the other 4 stoke fuels from PM. Is 20% oil the best to run? And why do they make 14% oil 4 stroke fuel?

0% PowerMaster 4-Stroke Blend 14% oil
15% PowerMaster 4-Stroke Blend 14% oil
20% PowerMaster 4-Stroke Blend 14% oil

earlwb

I would check the valve gaps to ensure they didn't close up.
The O-ring in the intake manifold might have gotten old, squashed down and loose and hard and is leaking now.
Like the others stated, try a new glow plug, sometime a glow plug will go bad really fast and sometimes they last semmingly forever.
Then like the others mentioned a clogged fuel line, needle or carb could do it too.

boogermancan

you know its funny how a motor on a model can make it cool or not .
now you can have some old raspy 2 stroke with a tune pipe on it . on a pylon racer. it will raise a few eye brows . most will cover there ears and step back
but you take a saito on a ugly-stick and they will all look twice and point . its really funny! some one could have got 3 or 4 ugly stick. all for the price of one saito .
or take me i putt a 125 on a 60 size twist . man talk about over kill . first of all it will climb straight up. just a 1/4 throttle . how ever you can come straight down full throttle. chop throttle and land with a
APC 17X4 W. if you have some wind. enough to make the wind sock stand out some. i can take off and go backwards down the field. so how come i didn't putt a 60 2stroke . not enough torque. so putt a 90 on it now it burns to much fuel and still no torque Recommended prop sizes: 14x8, 15x6-8, 16x6-8 for a 95AX Engine .. i can run a 17x 6 prop at 1500 rpm's on the bench. let it roll for a bit. and fly and never move the throttle. and never worried about a dead stick. how ever the 17x6 make it 2 fast .i ripped off the rudder . boy its tuff to fly with a rudder flapping around. the only saito i have that has fits. is the 50 i have .
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz76dbfQ_3A]youtube[/link]
it dose not like to idle. i have even try ed a heavy spinner nut and flywheel. lol it gets close to 2000 rpm's and dead stick. for a time it was in a Hangar 9's 40 Pulse . at 2500 rpm it would just start to roll so landing would float untill you dead stick it .

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Well I checked and did all recommended and still with no luck. Only thing I didn't do is check the fuel but it's new and I've been flying with it weekly. I don't think it's getting any fuel. I put some in the glow plug hole and it will bump like it's ready to start. I can't get it to do that by priming. So what could keep the fuel from getting to the cylinder. I blew out with fuel with the HS needle all the way out but still in and all the way out. took off the throttle arm and screwed out and in the LS needle and washed it with fuel. I'm at a loss for what to do now. I have compression even though I haven't checked the valves. I've worked on this thing on and off all day! I guess I need to take to an expert. Any more suggestions. And next time I will use different fuel just in case... that is if I can stand to even look at it again.

Thanks,
Jim

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks I'll check the valve gaps now. Only thing I haven't done besides the fuel. Don't think I'll try again today unless the gaps are really bad and probably that seems to be the culprit.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If all else fails send it up here and I'll ring it out for you, I don't think I'm that far north of you. I've done it for others, Barry and Jim, (w8ye) can vouch for me.

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Okay found out the problem. the tappet screw and nut were not even tight on one rocker arm. Fell out when I removed the valve cover. It's a wonder I didn't damage something. Tighten it up, set the valves and runs like a champ or guess I should say Saito. Previous owner had even put gasket glue or locktite on the valve cover gaskets so he had tinkered with it. On my third 10 minutes of break in. Thanks guys for all the tips. Sorry I'm just lazy I guess. Should have checked everything up front. Could have saved lots of time. I guess you are never too old to learn.

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, that's not something you'd expect, good job on finding it. You're lucky, I was running my Enya .53 TN about a week ago and it got sluggish. The exhaust valve adjuster screw had broken off and was laying loose in the rocker cover. Luckily I had a pair that I got when I ordered a set for a 1.55 I used to have. MRC told me to just keep them and sent me the correct ones for the 1.55.

the pope

Thanks for your reply earl the 40 is new. I was looking to build from scratch and I already have scratch built a stik with a 1160 mm W.S. that has a 25 mag 2 stroke in it. It flies just great with a good turn of speed and I was looking for similar performance with the 40 4 stroke. Now i was thinking I would have to decrease the W.S. somewhat but maybe not. Now as for the 100 twin I have blown up the plan to a wingspan of 1580mm which is way smaller than the one from duanesplanes but looking at the plan it seems too big to me. I did have another stik witha 82 saito in it with a W.S. of 1400mm which I also scratch built and it flew just fine. Now I have read that the 100 twin has power similar to a 80- 90 single and I dont want a plane that just putters around at full throtle, I want something with a bit of go. So increasing the W.S to 1580 compared to the 1400 W.S of the 82 does that seem to be on the right path or have I lost the plot completly? Thanks from the pope

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks well should have done a once over anyway but like I said lazy I guess. Now she's all broken in but LS I've turned in a good bit and she still stumbles a good bit on transition. So I guess I just continue with it peaked on HS and turn 1/4 turn on LS till I get good transition? I'm adjusting the valves and finishing that transition tomorrow and then putting back into the airplane. I should be ready to buzz it around the patch then.

Thanks,
Jim

mike early

if it stumbles it is too lean on the LS

Kostas1

spaceworm ,

yes it came loose after [size=43-4' of flight [/size]and the airplane behaved erratically.

In the end and as you can see, it completely seperated from the manifold and the only part that kept it in place (......i was lucky that i didn't loose it )
was the muffler back-pressure line!

I don't know what i will do....use some white tefflon maybe ? or a thread-locking paste ?

Or buy the factory muffler ?

spaceworm

Go to http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10557457 here on RCU for the best advice. Good luck

Sincerely,

Richard/Club SAITO #635
"Always On, Slightly Off"

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

I don't know Scooter, I was wondering the same thing. Maybe someone will chime in on the subject.


I hadn't flew a 4 stoke for almost a year, and I have to admit, the Saito 115 has pulled me kicking and screaming back to loving 4 stokes. The 115 maxes out @ 9000 with a APC 16x6 and pulls my 125 size Pulse smartly. I bought the Pulse to mount a DLE20 on, I think I will leave the Saito right where it is. I like it!

Scoot