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Old 10-13-2011, 03:40 PM
  #21051  
charlie1960
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Yes its the skinny M/A's
Old 10-13-2011, 05:08 PM
  #21052  
blw
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A puller is always good to have around. Yes, both front and rear bearings come out after heating in the oven. Sounds like you are about ready to do anything on engines.
Old 10-13-2011, 06:47 PM
  #21053  
STOKEY
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How go ya get registered in CLUB SAITO?
Thanks
Stokey
Old 10-14-2011, 04:45 AM
  #21054  
charlie1960
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Ive also used a power steering pump pulley remover
to take the drive hub off with.

the puller has two halves and a sleeve that drops over it.
it was the perfect size.
Old 10-14-2011, 06:33 AM
  #21055  
blw
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Stokey,

You need to have a Saito, which you do with your 100. You are now member #774. Welcome.
Old 10-14-2011, 12:59 PM
  #21056  
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I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.
Old 10-14-2011, 01:50 PM
  #21057  
clytle374
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Can I have a number too?

Cory
Old 10-15-2011, 03:33 AM
  #21058  
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ORIGINAL: flyingagin

I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.
How do you mean more what?
Old 10-15-2011, 03:50 AM
  #21059  
N1EDM
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I think he means whether it will need more work than just bearings and a ring.

Certainly a good cleaning will be in order, and valves readjusted. How about the cam gear shaft? Do those wear, OF? Or is that going too far?

Bob
Old 10-15-2011, 04:30 AM
  #21060  
flyingagin
 
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ORIGINAL: Old Fart


ORIGINAL: flyingagin

I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.
How do you mean more what?
More parts and more extensive repair, i.e. valve train parts. It for sure has a bunch of hours. Or might I just get by with the bearings and ring.

Thanks
N1EDMyou nailed what I failed to say
Sorry I did not make my selve clear

Old 10-15-2011, 06:59 AM
  #21061  
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We have 2 new members.

Flyingagin #775
Clytle374 #776
Old 10-15-2011, 11:55 AM
  #21062  
GaGeeBees
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


ORIGINAL: Old Fart


ORIGINAL: flyingagin

I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.
How do you mean more what?
More cowbell!
Old 10-15-2011, 12:44 PM
  #21063  
SigMan
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ORIGINAL: blw

We have 2 new members.

Flyingagin #775
Clytle374 #776
Welcome Aboard !
Old 10-15-2011, 03:51 PM
  #21064  
Rudolph Hart
 
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ORIGINAL: N1EDM

I think he means whether it will need more work than just bearings and a ring.

Certainly a good cleaning will be in order, and valves readjusted. How about the cam gear shaft? Do those wear, OF? Or is that going too far?

Bob
Hi bob that was kinda tongue in cheek maybe the more experienced members will chime in,none of my saitos are old enough so don't know about cam gear wear but if it moves it ain't gonna last forever.
Old 10-15-2011, 03:55 PM
  #21065  
Rudolph Hart
 
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ORIGINAL: STOKEY

How go ya get registered in CLUB SAITO?
Thanks
Stokey
You need a single digit IQ,if that makes you overqualified we can go halves in minewelcome mate.
Old 10-15-2011, 04:06 PM
  #21066  
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I will get the ring and main bearings ordered after we move in a week or two. Will post accordingly, (i.e. proplems and results)
Thanks all
Old 10-18-2011, 08:31 AM
  #21067  
Hobbsy
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Barry, sometime in the recent past there was a discussion concernng a poor tank location and the cure for it. The Cline and IronBay regulators were suggested, probably by me. I pulled my old 1991 High Compression Saito 1.50, one of the first sold, out of its box and mounted a Cline regulator.

Saito 1.50
Fuel WildCat 15% 2/4 with 18% full synthetic
Plug===Taipan 4c plug
Prop===MasterAirscrew Classic 18x6
RPM max===8,181
Idle slowest 1,750

I ran 14oz of the fuel out of the tank at various rpm then let it idle the rest of tank out at 2,300, (a realistic flight idle) it took at least 10 minutes to burn the last 2oz of the fuel out at idle. I wanted to see if the tank would stay pressurized until it ran out of fuel, it did. I used a Hobby Lobby metal check valve as the other Cline check valves are on Diesel engines in Tygon fuel line which melts on glow exhaust.

PS, the 18" prop cleared the firewood by .375"
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:00 AM
  #21068  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Barry, sometime in the recent past there was a discussion concernng a poor tank location and the cure for it. The Cline and IronBay regulators were suggested, probably by me. I pulled my old 1991 High Compression Saito 1.50, one of the first sold, out of its box and mounted a Cline regulator.

Saito 1.50
Fuel WildCat 15% 2/4 with 18% full synthetic
Plug===Taipan 4c plug
Prop===MasterAirscrew Classic 18x6
RPM max===8,181
Idle slowest 1,750

I ran 14oz of the fuel out of the tank at various rpm then let it idle the rest of tank out at 2,300, (a realistic flight idle) it took at least 10 minutes to burn the last 2oz of the fuel out at idle. I wanted to see if the tank would stay pressurized until it ran out of fuel, it did. I used a Hobby Lobby metal check valve as the other Cline check valves are on Diesel engines in Tygon fuel line which melts on glow exhaust.

PS, the 18'' prop cleared the firewood by .375''
NICE PICS, HOBBSY. You can put a bigger prop and use it to chop your firewood, winter is coming.

Since I am not experienced with pressure regulators, what would the engine have done without the regulator? Would it be mostly for correcting a badly located fuel tank?
Old 10-18-2011, 10:34 AM
  #21069  
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ORIGINAL: hsukaria
NICE PICS, HOBBSY. You can put a bigger prop and use it to chop your firewood, winter is coming.
Since I am not experienced with pressure regulators, what would the engine have done without the regulator? Would it be mostly for correcting a badly located fuel tank?
Yes it can help correct a bad location for a fuel tank. But they originally went with a pump and regulator to allow for more performance out of the engine. if the engine doesn't have to draw its own fuel, you can open up the bore for the carb or venturi and get more power out of the engine. Plus with constant pressure, you can set the needle valve more closly to peak RPMs as it will run the same on a full tank as it will on a low tank of fuel. the pattern flyers were arguably the early adopters to go with the fuel pumps and regulators on their engines.

the pump and regular is similar to using a bladder or crankcase pressure (timed or untimed) to allow the same performance gains on the engines.

Old 10-18-2011, 11:51 AM
  #21070  
frets24
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Is an FA-91 going to be enough motor for a 12lb, 72"wingspan plane? This bird claims to be a 60 (2c) plane but it sure seems to be about on par with the likes of an ESM or KMP 120 plane.

Is there any kind of "rule of thumb" for sizing engines by plane weight or span?

Also, the link I used to have for a thrust calculator is NLA; Does anyone have a link to any kind of engine/prop thrust calc?

Thanks!!

PS; by the way, this FA-91 is turning an Evolution 14x8 prop @8250rpm on 15% nitro-18% castor/synth cool power
Old 10-18-2011, 12:11 PM
  #21071  
Hobbsy
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Thanks H, I can respond to you and Earl both by saying it can cure a too high tank or too low tank problem and also make it possible to put the tank on the CG which was the original intent. And, Earl is correct, you can run the HS needle closer to peak. I had a Saito 2.20 that came with the large carb option and the crankcase pump to pressureize the tank by restricting the vent output. That system was very hard to get a suitable adjustment, the IronBay regulator worked with the large carb option much better and required no adjustment.
Old 10-18-2011, 12:47 PM
  #21072  
hsukaria
 
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Thanks H, I can respond to you and Earl both by saying it can cure a too high tank or too low tank problem and also make it possible to put the tank on the CG which was the original intent. And, Earl is correct, you can run the HS needle closer to peak. I had a Saito 2.20 that came with the large carb option and the crankcase pump to pressureize the tank by restricting the vent output. That system was very hard to get a suitable adjustment, the IronBay regulator worked with the large carb option much better and required no adjustment.
I suppose these regulators would help with glow engines that are converted to gas since the gas fuel flow is lower and the muffler pressure is not used to pressurize the tank? I'm thinking of conversions that would keep the glow carb instead of going to a Walbro pump carb?
Old 10-18-2011, 06:20 PM
  #21073  
flycatch
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I have a Saito 1.8 FS that stops running when the igniter is removed at 1/4 barrel setting. It runs fine at WOT and half throttle with the igniter removed. I'm stumpped.
Old 10-18-2011, 06:29 PM
  #21074  
Hobbsy
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Low Speed needle too rich, set HS needle at full peak, then lean LS needle 1/8th turn at a time until you get about a 2,000 rpm idle, be willing to sacrifice a few rpm in favor of the best transition. Fly it at about 2,200 rpm idle.
Old 10-18-2011, 06:37 PM
  #21075  
flycatch
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Thanks for the reply. I'll continue on taking your suggestion has my first step. I'm new to Saito engines since I have been using OS. I guess there is no secret they tune the same way except for YS.


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