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Old 11-02-2011, 05:45 PM
  #21201  
w8ye
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If you feel that doubtful about what I tell you, maybe you should try it and find out for yourself? No one else on here ever got one to work except on the bench!

Siphoning is a serious problem when you tank is high - even with a Perry pump. You may have to resort to using a Cline regulator. The Saito system works fine and easy when using a Cline regulator.
Old 11-02-2011, 05:52 PM
  #21202  
flycatch
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How does the Cline regulator work since is another type of unit that relies upon crankcase pressure pulses. If the Saito unit is so bad why does Saito supply it with the 200 series of engine? I asked other a similar question on the tank position of the ESM hawker Hurricane and received no replies.
Old 11-02-2011, 06:13 PM
  #21203  
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The guys in Japan will fiddle with something for days and then use in under a very specific condition to make it work.

You do not use your engine that way.

The Cline is a demand regulator. It will not let any fuel through unless there is a suction on the line between the regulator and the carb.

The working mechanism of a Cline is actually the regulator part of a Walbro WA or WT series weed whacker or small chainsaw carb. There have been people to use a Walbro or Zama gasoline carb as a pump and regulator on their glow engine. There is just no air going through it. You still use the glow carb
Old 11-02-2011, 06:24 PM
  #21204  
flycatch
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Ok, you answered my question. It works just like my YS engine which has a diaphram. I went to the Cline website and the business is up for sale. Is it still in operation or sold to someone else. It appears that I will have to return the engine back to its' stock configuration and purchase this unit. It will solve the problem of tank position and siphoning. Thank', for your time and information.
Old 11-02-2011, 06:33 PM
  #21205  
w8ye
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Cline himself passed away a couple years ago. I don't know about the status of the business.

There's another brand of regulator made in Wheeling WV but I cannot recall the name at the moment. It is cheaper than the Cline.
Old 11-02-2011, 06:35 PM
  #21206  
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The Y-S works different from the Cline. The Y-S is a piddle valve regulator that is engine speed regulated. At least the old ones were. I have not seen a Y-S to use it or work on it in 6 years.
Old 11-02-2011, 06:37 PM
  #21207  
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Here's the other brand

http://www.ironbaymodelcompany.com/i...es/Page438.htm
Old 11-02-2011, 07:31 PM
  #21208  
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Iron bay regulator is also a demand regulator

The valve inside the "inlet nipple" is a Schrader tire valve. Suction on the diaphragm from the carb will cause the diaphragm to open the Schrader valve.
Old 11-03-2011, 10:51 PM
  #21209  
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Wolf Models is at Grantham or at least near Rosewood which is near Ipswitch. I have a couple and am mightly impressed
Old 11-04-2011, 04:14 AM
  #21210  
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You can;t just but in here in awestralian mate!
Old 11-04-2011, 08:36 PM
  #21211  
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Anyone have some Saito decals they'd be willing to part with? Finally have a home for my early-90's vintage FA-80, a Goldberg Chipmunk. It's still in kit form but I plan on getting it built soon. Would love to be able to put proper engine ID on the cowling. The ones I had were on a plane that died many years ago.
Old 11-05-2011, 03:19 AM
  #21212  
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I'll be back.
Old 11-05-2011, 07:22 AM
  #21213  
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ORIGINAL: hsukaria


ORIGINAL: jknox

Update on the crashed 125. Determined bent crank and at least one distorted ball bearing in additon to above. Price to repair now almost 90% of new engine. Sadly it looks like it's finished. [img][/img]
ouch!! sorry to hear that.
How did you determine the crank was bent?

Club Member 709
Old 11-05-2011, 12:07 PM
  #21214  
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TD, I found one and its perfect, the camera distorted the color a little due to poor lighting, ignore that please.
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:41 PM
  #21215  
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Hobby, how much do you wan for those?
Old 11-06-2011, 12:39 AM
  #21216  
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ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

Check your battery switch. The have been a number of occurances when exactly that has occured at O/T venues. Switch develops high resistence etc. Fix is to go to specialist flick switches or use heavy duty 3 core ones like you use for 2.4 gig sets
Just a quick update, the switch is toast. Im glad to have found the prob. but sorry I ditched a good battery.The plane was ready for the bin anyway but the reciever was brand new so Im happy and sad at the same time. Cheers the pope
Old 11-06-2011, 09:37 PM
  #21217  
FNQFLYER
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Old fart I sent that info about the switches as a reply to a post.  Wolf Models survived the debacle that happened in the Lowood Valley at the beginning of the year, just got a little water around the toes, he was lucky.  The guy has all sorts of modelling stuff, all good and all backed with "no questions asked" replacement policy.  Tests all the engnes and stuff he sells and best of all has a CAD controlled laser cutter to cut the bits for your next creation.  Just send him a cd or stick with the full sized plan copied onto to it.
My mate / mentor lives just down the road at Rosewood and flys at Calvert Field and checks out all the bits I want before I get them sent to me.  So far so good and no dud bits.
Catch ya.
Old 11-07-2011, 06:34 PM
  #21218  
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hey fellas i have a question concerning the saito 220a. i purchased a mustang with the 220 installed and almost ready to fly. first , i cant see the carb in the inverted position.
my question is:
with the engine in the same position as the two engines in the picture, with the throttle arm forward as those in picture, is the carb open or closed ?
on the 1.50 in picture it is open. and on the .72 it is closed. this has to be confirmed for me before statrup. thanks in advance for confirmed info.
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:08 PM
  #21219  
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I'm putting together a 100 twin and for the life of me get the left cylinder to match. The right side is mint, but the left pushes out the intake and pulls through the exhaust. Cam dots are being installed with each cylinder at TDC. After I put the right cylinder at TDC, the crank is spun counterclock wise from looking behind. I even tried clockwise thinking I maybe misinterpreted the orientation. Makes no difference.
Old 11-07-2011, 09:24 PM
  #21220  
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The left cam has a dot and a line for alignment. You have to use the line and not the dot.

The first one I did, I ignored the line and tried to use the dot. I had the same trouble as you.

So I timed the left cylinder by centering the overlap by trial and error. The engine runs great though.

The next one I did, I discovered the line.
Old 11-08-2011, 06:15 AM
  #21221  
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Just wondering what you guys see as acceptable vibration? Mine seems to vibrate the whole airframe rather heavily, and I'm wondering if this is "normal"?
Old 11-08-2011, 07:17 AM
  #21222  
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

The left cam has a dot and a line for alignment. You have to use the line and not the dot.

The first one I did, I ignored the line and tried to use the dot. I had the same trouble as you.

So I timed the left cylinder by centering the overlap by trial and error. The engine runs great though.

The next one I did, I discovered the line.
Just took both sides apart. There is nothing but dots on the cams. I'm thinking I will have to set time based on BDC. But where in relation to #1's cycle?
Old 11-08-2011, 07:20 AM
  #21223  
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Nevermind. I found the line. After a cleaning of the gear with a brass brush.
Old 11-08-2011, 08:20 AM
  #21224  
w8ye
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ORIGINAL: octanehuffer


ORIGINAL: w8ye

The left cam has a dot and a line for alignment. You have to use the line and not the dot.

The first one I did, I ignored the line and tried to use the dot. I had the same trouble as you.

So I timed the left cylinder by centering the overlap by trial and error. The engine runs great though.

The next one I did, I discovered the line.
Just took both sides apart. There is nothing but dots on the cams. I'm thinking I will have to set time based on BDC. But where in relation to #1's cycle?
The relationship of the left cyclinder to the right cylinder will take care of itself if you set the line on the cam towards the crankshaft with the left cylinder at Top Dead Center.

Old 11-08-2011, 01:44 PM
  #21225  
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Assuming nothing has been modified the throttle arm must be back towards the firewall...away from the engine.


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