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Old 12-17-2011, 05:51 PM
  #21451  
earlwb
 
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The Saito .40 is sort of a bored out .30, so it weighs slightly less than the ,30 and develops a lot more power than the .30 does.
I am very impressed with the two FA-40a engines that I have on my twin engine P82 Mustang.

Old 12-17-2011, 06:08 PM
  #21452  
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Here is a side by side of the FA .30 and the .40a. The .30 is one of the early little .30s
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:34 PM
  #21453  
Tarasdad
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The last .30's I recall seeing for sale were the limited edition gold-plated ones.
Old 12-18-2011, 03:46 AM
  #21454  
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Yeh me too re the gold plated 30's.Earl i thought reading the spec sheets for the 30 and 40 that the 40 was the older style heavy and the 30 weighed less and made good power to weight,like better than the old 40?
Old 12-18-2011, 06:39 AM
  #21455  
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I think you are correct. the crankcase size is almost the same as the .30 but not quite. I had to look it up inSaito's instruction sheets. It looks like the .40a has about 1mm longer mounting screw placement and the screw mounting holes are 2mm wider than what is on the .30 engine.
The .40a appears to have some performance improvements as it develops a little more power than the earlier .40 does.
Old 12-18-2011, 06:36 PM
  #21456  
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When the .40a was first released Horizon claimed it would sit right in the same bolt pattern as the .30, it wasn't long before guys who bought the .40a to replace a .30 said no way. The .40a is in the new style crank case with the cam in a cam chest rather than in the cover. The older .30 was about the same size as the older FA .40 and .45 and .50. Like the .40 on the left.
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:10 PM
  #21457  
Pete Bergstrom
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ORIGINAL: hsukaria


ORIGINAL: s. wallace

Has Saito dropped the 1.80 glow? Was on Horizon's website today to order one but they were not listed, the 1.80 gas version was but in glow they went from the 1.50 to the 2.20.
I noticed that also the other day.
There is a new 180 "B" version now out and available. This now shares the updated crankcase of the FG-30 engine - no other changes. The part numbers are SAIE180B or SAIE180BGK for the Golden Knight version.

Pete
Old 12-19-2011, 01:28 PM
  #21458  
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http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10866872
Old 12-19-2011, 02:54 PM
  #21459  
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I just installed an "Iron Bay " fuel regulator on a Saito 220 mounted inverted. The engine is brand new and so is the regulator. I hooked-up the regulator according to the supplied instructions and it appeared to be working at 1/4 throttle. I ran the engine at this setting for 10 minutes to break in the new components. On the second run I advanced the trottle to half and this is were the problem starts. The fuel line from the regulator to the carburator fills up with air bubbles and the engine starts to die. Moving the throttle back to the 1/4 setting the air bubbles dissappear and the engines runs fine. I tried adjusting the needle valve from lean to rich and it makes no difference. Do I have an air leak in the regulator or could it becoming from some other place. This is my first regulator and I'm asking for help.
Old 12-19-2011, 03:40 PM
  #21460  
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ORIGINAL: NM2K
ORIGINAL: earlwb
ORIGINAL: lopflyers
Thx guys for all the suggestions

earlwb: The P51 was a nightmare since the beggining, it is a yr old and has being flown 4 times. The first two times were deadsticks, neither me nor the good old boys at the club could made the thing iddle. I put a on board ignitor and that didnt work well. Someone adjusted the valves and suggested a special plug with a tab special for inverted engines and that worked.
The next flight the gear didnt come out so it landed on her belly. Fixed that, then the canopy came out midair.[X(]
This weekend I try to fly her again and now is very nose heavy, to the point she cant even taxi. I didnt move anything around so I have to see what shifted while in the garage. Not to mention that the monocote is becoming loose in several areas.I DONT WANT THE THING ANYMORE, Im tired of fixing a plane for 1 yr that I barely fly.

Have 5 other planes, Phoenix Extra 300, Lanier Edge 540, Funtana S 90 size, Small(59) Revolver and Small Hobby King Yak 54.

The Twist 60 and Spacewalker are nice options. I dont care about theEscapade too much.[:'(]
Ive always like the Sundowner and Sbach but I dont think they come in a suitable size for my 100.
I can understand that. I had a Ultimate Biplane that got the best of me. It you tried to do a slow roll the engine would quit. Four points were OK, inverted was OK, up and down was OK, but slow rolls would kill the engine. I tried four different engines and used a fuel pump, changed fuel lines and fuel tanks. I eventually gave up on it and quit flying the plane.
Don't let a model intimidate you and make you give up on it. Models are constructed of wood, plastic, foam (in some cases), screws, fittings, etc. They are not alive and they don't have it out for you.

You need to look at your models in the same way that maintenance crews look at full size aircraft - and that is as a collection of systems, made of impersonal component parts.

In the case that you described above, it is obvious that your model's fuel system is defective and needs attention. Find someone in the club that is particularly clever at analyzing and fixing model fuel systems and ask for his/her help. Don't let your model intimidate you. It is a lifeless collection of parts, nothing more - nothing less.

Ed Cregger
Yes it had a fuel system problem, never did figure it out though. I bought the plane cheap from another guy who had the same problem. Being me I thought I knew what to do to solve it. But to no avail.So I sold it to someone else who thought they could fix it. It did the same thing to him too. But he wasn't very good at dead stick landings though. And a Ultimate bipe has the glide rate of the Space Shuttle too. So that ended that.
When you can do loops, four point rolls, fly inverted, climb and descend but can't do a roll or the engine will die will remain a mystery to this day.

The only thing I can think of was the clunk was maybe too light in weight and would be too slow in responding to the model's manuevers, and thus would wind up sucking air in a roll as the Gee forces weren't enough to force the clunk to stay in the fuel.


Old 12-19-2011, 03:41 PM
  #21461  
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It appears that you have an air leak in the regulator
Old 12-19-2011, 03:44 PM
  #21462  
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It sure sounds like a leak in the regulator. But you might want to check the fuel lines carefully in case one of them has a pinhole in it.
You might try bypassing the regulator and see if it has the air bubbles or not and then try hooking it back up again. Check the fittings carefully and ensure the fuel tubing is on tight and not loose or weakly on the fittings.
Old 12-19-2011, 04:25 PM
  #21463  
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There is a Saito 30 here

http://www.wacohobbystop.com/index.html

Old 12-19-2011, 04:31 PM
  #21464  
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Thanks' for the reply, I thought the same thing. Are the Cline regulators any better being that they are all plastic in construction.
Old 12-19-2011, 08:32 PM
  #21465  
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There have been people on here with the same exact problem with a Cline.
Old 12-23-2011, 04:21 AM
  #21466  
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Siggy can i have your saito club number? i feel the need to be famous somewhere in the universe..can you help
Old 12-23-2011, 03:12 PM
  #21467  
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Old 12-24-2011, 04:57 PM
  #21468  
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Hi, I need some advice before I send a NIB Saito 220 back to Horizon. I posted a few days ago seeking advice on a different problem which was air bubbles in the line and the engine quitting going past 1/2 throttle. I'm using an Iron Bay regulator due to the tank being above the engine spray bar. The replies to this problem pointed torward the regulator being defective. This was not the case and I found the back plate of the stopper assembly in the fuel tank was stripped out and when screwing in the screw to expand the stopper it had nothing to adhere to. This made the whole assembly ineffective and air was leaking pass the stopper. I solved this problem by going to a coaser threaded screw and the air bubble problem dissappeared. Now I'm faced with a different problem. Once I go pass 1/2 throttle the engine backfires. H.S. needle valve is set at 4 turns out. I tried leaning it but the problem remains. Any suggestings would be appreciated.
Old 12-24-2011, 05:42 PM
  #21469  
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Is the regulator body within an inch of the spraybar? When I ordered my IronBay regulator John was concerned that the regulator might not heve the capacity to feed a 2.20, however the one I received did but would onlyy richen the rpm down about 100 rpm from peak which was OK since you can run right at peak with a regulator.
Old 12-24-2011, 08:56 PM
  #21470  
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I mounted the regulator body on the opposite side of the engine. The outlet on the regulator to the intake barb on the spray bar is about 3 inches. As I stated it works fine until I go above 1/2 throttle. If I understand you correctly you were told by the manufacture not to exceed 1 inch distance.
Old 12-25-2011, 03:58 AM
  #21471  
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Yes, both Cline and IronBay recommend an inch or less from the carb. They are demand regulators and the the closer to the demand the better. YS also has the bubble problem, that's the reason YS went to the dark blue fuel line from the regulator to the carb.

My suggestion is to call John at IronBay, he is friendly and easy to talk to.
Old 12-25-2011, 05:21 AM
  #21472  
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Hello Hobbsy,

Merry Christmas to you and all of the Club Saito members!

Jim
Old 12-25-2011, 05:48 AM
  #21473  
Hobbsy
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Thanks Jim and the same to you and yours, I am currently finishing and old ACE 4-40 and have mounted and old Saito FA .40 with a TutboHeader on it. I'll post a couple of pics. later today.
Old 12-25-2011, 07:41 AM
  #21474  
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Great! I am looking forward to seeing it.

Jim
Old 12-25-2011, 08:22 AM
  #21475  
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hope my new RF 6 has a Saito in it it somewhere !


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