mjraines1

You are correct. The 1/2 inch recess 3/8 inch deep is required for the adapter.

B & B is MIA?

barnowljenx

Hi - I've only just come across this thread. I have a number of Saito engines (2x 100s, 1 x 150, 1x 180 and 1 x Ti 200). Haven't run the 200 yet but of the others the 180 has caused me the greatest problems. I could not get the exhaust to stay attached for more than a couple of flights. Then it spat its camhsaft off. Then Igot the new style Saito exhaust and thought all was well. But.....even that exhaust works loose and causes and engine outage.

Any suggestions on how to keep Saito 180s and their exhausts firmly connected?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Use Teflon Plumbers tape, two laps and don't be bashful with the wrench. Use very solid mounts. When tightening the jam nut, put the muffler almost where you want it and then let the pipe turn with the jam nut.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There was once a guy on here with a Saito that kept breaking the muffler off at the pipe threads. I bought this engine from the guy. It had an out of balance spinner on it.

I have used this engine for three years and never did anything to it but change the spinner. The muffler that was on it when it sent the engine to me is still on it. The muffler has never broken or come off. It has to have a couple hundred flights on it by now?

earlwb

Did you balance the propeller and spinner too? If they are not balanced and or off center, that will cause the problem.
Also the engine mount needs to be good too. No flimsy stuff.

SrTelemaster150

A piloted drill will not leave a perpindicular shoulder like a counterbore.

The OP on this subject was concerned about that very issue.

SrTelemaster150

Most info I have seen on E-85 mixes use a 20:1 or less ratio. The 270T does not have neddle bearing on the rods so I would definately NOT go any les than 5% oil, 7% might be better.

Your typical "gasser" engines will have roller/needle bearing on the crank so they can be run W/less oil than a converted glow engine or the Saito FG series.

E-85 may be hard to meter W/a gas carb, a glow fuel carb would likely be better as the delivery volume requirements for alcohol will be 30-33% more compared to gasoline.

spaceworm

I am unterested in using E85, but we don't have it here. How can I make E85 from gasoline with 10% ethanol? Thanks

spaceworm

I would like to use E85, but we do not have it here. How can I make E85 out of 10% ethanol gasoline? Thanks.

Garthwood

I wrap plumbers Teflon tape around the threads. Works for me all the time.

charles.

mjraines1

Hey what about kock tight or thread lock?

mjraines1

How about lock tight or thread lock?

mike early

Don't mess with that stuff. Get the teflon tape. Rolls can be had for $1. Sometimes 2 for a buck at harbor freight.

I also use it on prop shafts if the prop hole is too large.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Toss the anti-vibration mounts as well.


Ed Cregger

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

You do not want the .5" shoulder to bottom out, so the shape of the drill end does not matter, the front washer holds the prop against the prop driver.

Garthwood

Not a good idea. Like I said Teflon is much better and much easier to remove later if need be.


Charles.

SrTelemaster150

Then there's nothing more needed than a 1/2" drill bit & a drill press. Use a bit the same size as the bore in the prop to locate the center, clamp the prop down or hold in a drill vise, then switch to the 1/2" bit & set the depth stop on the drill presss for the depth desired.

I would only resort to the piloted bit used W/O a drill press as a last resort.

barnowljenx

Hobbsy and the rest of you who answered my question. Many thanks. I have tired, plumbers tape, 5 min epoxy, balanced the prop but not actually tried balancing the spinner. It is a Truturn spinner but Iwill try out the back plate for balance and then clamp fron and back together for total balance. The prop has been balanced and the engine mount is a solid one - needs to be with the amount of vibration from the 180 - the 150 is much smoother but lacks the power Ineed. I'm using the new Saito exhaust and that is better than the angled one of old but still has failed to stay on. I guess its balance the spinner, plumbers tape and four white knuckles on the wrench. Thanks guys.

mike early

Usually easier to try a different spinner.
But the 150 is smoother, with the same spinner?

earlwb

The spinner should fit on the crankshaft almost perfectly, virtually no play in the center on the crankshaft shoulder at all. Make sure you are using the correct insert size for the spinner. But it sure sounds like the spinner and or prop is out of balance by quite a bit though. Does the prop fit the crankshaft good too?

One thought is what type of plane you have the engine on. Is the firewall flexing some too? Is this a fibreglass fuselage plane with a plywood firewall? With the engine mount flexing and the firewall flexing it can magnify the vibration effects making them worse. Especially it it resonates at certain RPMs or vibration frequencies. You should study that and see if it is the problem. You can add another layer of plywood to the firewall and also some additional fiberglass cloth on the inside around the edges to reinforce it and change the vibration resonance modes. IF you are using a rubber vibration dampening motor mount setup, that type of motor mount setup can make it worse too.

charlie1960

Ive had several spinners of various manufactuers come out of the package out of balance, usually the larger ones are worse.

Be sure to make an index mark on the spinner and backplate so you can put it back in its balanced position

barnowljenx

OK, thanks for the last 3 posts. To respond to all the issues raised:

1. The aircraft isa Capiche 140 and there is no problem with flexing of the motor box or firewall and the motor mounts are solid.
2. The spinner is centred and a snug fit on the prop shaft by use of the shim supplied with the Truturn spinner
3. Good point about marking the backplate and spinner after balancing - will need to do that so it goes back correctly
4. The prop is balanced - Iuse a GPprop balancer.
5. When Itried the 150 with the same spinner and prop, it was much smoother than the 180, but didn't have the required vertical performance.

I'll be re-balancing the spinner, checking the prop and using teflon tape on the header to engine and header to muffler joints with overlaps to allow the lock nut to grab some tape. Will also run up the engine to temperature and then re-tighten both lock nuts - and hope the problem goes away.

Thanks for the advice guys.

mike early

The same spinner on the 150 was smooth, then it might not be the spinner.

Sounds like a headache. sorry.

SrTelemaster150

Try to wobble the prop shaft to see if there is ANY side to side or thrust play. If you detect any it's time to check the crankshaft bearings. Even if you can't detect any play, pop the rear cove off & check the bearings closer for rust/slop.

I had a 150 that was vibrating excessively & it had rusty bearings.

charlie1960

good idea, that....

I would have never thought of this.