SrTelemaster150

Pretty good actually.

In fact, I have PIX of installing the hall sensor & trigger ring. (this is an old C&H unit that I ran back in '97-'98) I also got shots of my homemade pointer as well as the 3 steps involved in finding TDC.

I'll have to get them downloaded to Photobucket this evening & then I can post them.

Just converting to EI increaed RPM by 4% & decreased fuel consumption by 19% when using the same 15% Cool Power. This was W/an 18X8 prop that was a bit of overload for static. I did a consupsion test way back W/a 16X8 prop & the fuel consumption dropped dramatically more.

C&H is no longer in business, but ST Engines makes a conversion based on the same type of easy adjust trigger ring & cam housing mounted hall sensor. Their unit is engineered much better than the old C&H, but it is just as user friendly.

Here is a clip that shows the complete gas conversion. It shows the ease of the ingnition conversion that is a much better set up for adjusting the ignition timeing than the Saito OEM system. The Saito system relys on accurate placement of the trigger magnet in the prop hub & making fine adjusments via the hall sensor. the C&H as well as ST Engines system allows infinite adjustment of the trigger ring.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_IBYmQA-pM[/youtube]

KenD

My Feedback: (65)

Thanks, I have the complete conversion setup, just wondered how the pickup assembly was installed because of the splines near the prop hub. BTW CH ignitions are alive and well and being producted by a different person.

hsukaria

Where would you buy this conversion kit shown in the video? How much $$$? Is that with a Walbro pumper carb that can run gasoline?
THANKS.

hsukaria

I have a Great Planes Giant Stick with a Saito 1.8 that weighs 14 lbs. I wish I had more power or that the plane weighed less.

Ernie Misner

flycatch, it's going lean for some reason, could be dangerous until you figure it out, wear your safety equipment. As soon as a 4-stroke goes lean the combustion timing advances radically and..... BAM. Souds like fuel flow is restricted somewhat, air leak at intake O-ring, or whatever. Richen the needles up drastically and see if it still does it. Good luck, keep us posted.

Ernie Misner

RC Specialties

Garthwood

You have that 125 loaded up with the Graupner. You should be up around the low 9K's. At that weight the airplane will fly but may be sluggish. Unload it and let it work. Follow the normal tuning process with a different prop.

Jim

mvarzoni

Dear all,
I'm not a club member, but I would love be...

I have a question.
Is there any bad if I mount the exaust pipe pointing up like showed on the picture?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They run fine that way

mvarzoni

pic

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I think it looks neat with the smoke coming out the top of the engine as the airplane flies along.

The engine does not care.

However, from a theory point of view, if the engine is flooded at starting, there is no way for the fuel to get out.

mike early

is that plane upside down?

Ernie Misner

Some teflon tape on all the exhaust threads might keep her a little cleaner. I like a percentage of castor too.......

Ernie

radial1951

*
Castor oil in gas (Petrol) OR is it nitro?? Is that an ignition sensor mount near the prop driver...? Where's the carby?

Regards, Ross
radial1951
_______________

Garthwood

Jim......thank you. I know that the 3-blade prop is loading up. What you are saying is that first I should make the normal running in procedure with a 2-blade prop like a 16x8 . After that I can install back the 3-blade prop ?
With a 3-blade prop I was expecting only around 8000 rpms.

Ernie Misner

Oops, it does look like a gasser, so probably no castor, sorry, ..... still might be leaking a bit at those joints.

Ernie

RC Specialties

Gartwood,

You want to avoid loading up an engine too much in any case. Use a three blade that will keep your engine in a proper rpm range. I believe the one you have is too much prop for that engine, given the rpm you stated.

Jim

Garthwood

JIM..............Thanks. I'll probably switch to a 16x8 2-blade.

Rudolph Hart

Ernie it looks from the pic that it runs very hot around the exhaust header area,is this normal for a gas saito? how much hotter do they run compared to a nitro saito?

spaceworm

I think gas does run hotter, but I think maybe that gunk around and on the muffler may be from before the glow to gas conversion? I would like to know as I am thinking to convert my FA 180 to gas or maybe to glow with spark ignition to improve fuel economy.

Sincerely, Richard

Ernie Misner

Good question guys, maybe the owner of that gasser will chime in. We do know that gas can run a lot hotter without the cooling effect of all that alcohol going through. You get an equal amount of oxygen but the alcohol mixes at a ratio of approx.? 8 to one instead of 14 to 1 with gas. You can feel the cooling action of alcohol when it evaporates from your hand plus there's that much more going through the pipe line.

Ernie

flyingt5150

Hi Everyone,
I have a .65 Satio Golden Knight four stroke. I put it on a H9 piper pawnee 40. It was very doggy. I love this engine! I want
to find a model for this engine. I was thinking of a Sig Astro Hog, would this be a good fit for this great engine.

Thanks for any input

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Any of the 1/5 scale Cubs are a great match. Hangar 9, Great Planes, SIG...

SrTelemaster150

I just did some testing W/my FA 150

A: glow iginition W/15% Cool Power

B:C&H Electronic Ignition on 15% CP

C:C&H EI on 15:1 E85/KLOTZ mix

All W/a Dynathrust 18X8 nylon prop, tank filled to overflow, glow ignited run started & run 30s W/glow igniter @ high idle, then 30s @ high idle W/O GI before WOT run, then WOT until 1st sign of surge, then shut down & temp reading taken
All EI runs started & run @ high idle for 60s, then WOT until 1st sign of surge, then shut down & temp readings taken.

Results:

A: 7700 RPM, 1700 RPM idle, ran 9m 45s @ WOT on 16oz fuel, 241*F Cylinder Head Temperture after full run

B: 7850 RPM, 1400 RPM idle, ran 12m 00 s @ WOT on 16oz fuel, 271*F CHT after full run

C: 7500 RPM, 1400 RPM idle, ran 15 minutes @ WOT & was shut down after about 8oz of fuel consumed, 291*F CHT after 15 minute WOT run (timing was advanced to 35* BTDC compared to 28* BTDC for the 15% CP run)

The EI on 15% CP increased RPM by 2% while getting 23% better fuel economy.

For comparison, my FA 180 turned the same prop on glow ignition W/15% CP @ 8000 RPM & drained the 16oz tank in 6m 45s That's a 4% increase in RPM (12% HP increase according to Saito spec) while decreasing fuel economy by nearly 30%

I think W/some more timing advance, the FA 150 on 15% CP & EI would have closed the RPM gap W/the FA 180 even more or even exceeded it W/O significantly decreasing fuel economy as 7* more timing advance improved the RPM on the E85 run by 300 RPM.

By comparison the FG 36 users are reporting only about a 200 RPM advantage Wan 18X8 prop over the FA 150 running E85/KLOTZ 15:1 mix on EI.

bradharvy

Ok, just got my saito fa56 back friday from HH. Went to the field and through a tank a fuel in it. Had to lean it out almost a half of a turn. That puts it at 1 1/8 turn open... Doesn't seem like enough. It runs hot, gonna take my minitemp today and find out how hot.
  They replaced bearings and gasket set, cleaned and installed new glow plug. Said they ran it in and it ran great on there bench. Why am I needing to lean it out than? They are right across the state line in Il., I'm in MO. Should run the same.. And they leaned the low end way out. there is a very slight gap inbetween lowend and idle bar or spray bar whatever.. Seems a bit lean. It doesn't want to transition up top? can't get rpms even when leaned out up top.. and it still will stumble. I'm confused...Do you think the low end could be too lean?

spaceworm

Same fuel and prop as they were using?