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Old 03-16-2006, 06:43 PM
  #2201  
William Robison
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BQuartucy:

Hope this is clear for the assembly of the mount, if my worded explanation wasn't enough.

Bill.

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Old 03-16-2006, 06:46 PM
  #2202  
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ORIGINAL: William Robison

Gary:

With the crank only in the engine it should feel silky smooth. You should be able to hold the case with the crank horizontal, and as you roll the case the crank counter weight should stay at the bottom. there should be no more than a slight drag from the seals on the front bearing.

Probably all in my head, but the ceramics always gave me a feeling of a harder mounting, yet easier turning than even the best steel bearings.

Bill.
[/b]
well its not quite that smooth but i think its gonna be ok, dont know what else to do but try it
it sure did come out well in the coolant, looks great
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Old 03-16-2006, 06:57 PM
  #2203  
William Robison
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Gary:

It does look nice, but that hammer I see in the second picture... Sort of makes me wonder about some people diddling with their Saitos.

Haw.

Bill.
Old 03-16-2006, 07:01 PM
  #2204  
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isnt that how your suppose to install those bearing thingys??? [X(] HAW HAW!!
Old 03-16-2006, 07:51 PM
  #2205  
Kmot
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I noticed a sacrificial open end wrench anode in the coolant mix too.
Old 03-16-2006, 07:54 PM
  #2206  
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Bill,
I can only say this as to a comment. The Saitos IMO are a very user friendly reliable engine and as one that chooses to tinker I don't mind doing that with my YS Engines. As you well know, when the YS is on it's on and the power is awesome. When it's not it's not and can be troublesome. That being said, I have yet to replace a set of bearings in any of my YS Engines. I'm sorry, but I can't say that about my Saito FA-100 and this seems to be a big problem in the 100 size and not so in the other displacements. I am extremely interested at this point with the new Saito 125 as to how it will perform at a lighter weight and hold up as compared to the YS 110FZ.

One great selling point on the Saito is the three year warranty. Unfortunately Horizon seems to pick and choose who will get a bearing replacement under the warranty. The problem is that a new set seems to last no longer that the originals. Yes, I add castor to my fuel as you recommended a year or so ago and use plenty of Marvel Air Tool Oil as an after run.

I think they (Saito and Horizon), missed the boat in pricing this engine higher at ($339.00), than the 110FZ ($323.00). Only time will tell if this engine proves to be more reliable IMO than the FA-100. If it does then I'll probably buy one for some other plane that I don't really need .
Old 03-16-2006, 07:57 PM
  #2207  
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Gary,
Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....
Don't let Bill find out all our bearing installation secrets!

JLK
Old 03-16-2006, 08:01 PM
  #2208  
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ORIGINAL: Kmot

I noticed a sacrificial open end wrench anode in the coolant mix too.
HE HE!! thats a reflection of my wrenches hanging on my workshop wall, i saw that too
Old 03-16-2006, 08:03 PM
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yea JLK, and thats my small hammer
Old 03-16-2006, 08:34 PM
  #2210  
William Robison
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Actually, folks, there are times when a BFH is the proper tool. After all, haven't you heard "Don't force it..." Haw.

Don't you remember my thread "Crank Benders Unite?" Pictured tool is the one I used to research that method for straightening a crank.

Bill.

PS: New camera strikes again! wr.

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Old 03-16-2006, 08:41 PM
  #2211  
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Bill,
Where can I buy the "BFH" brand?

JLK
Old 03-16-2006, 08:53 PM
  #2212  
William Robison
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John:

I buy mine from Harvard Flight. This store is definitely not Harbor Freight. They also sell unobtanium and sky hooks.And if you go scrounging you sometimes find the lead alloy that has a negative weight. Great for a tail heavy plane.

Cheek filled with tongue.

Bill.
Old 03-16-2006, 09:00 PM
  #2213  
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I remember an old Rocky and Bullwinkle show where they were able to mine or refine some "Upsidasium" which had properties akin to the lead alloy in your post 2150, Bill. I wonder if it's the same thing...

Bob
Old 03-16-2006, 09:05 PM
  #2214  
William Robison
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Bob:

Upsidasium is very similar, but these days it's more commonly called "Deflated Uranium." You will recfall that "Depleted Uranium" is more dense than lead, well, deflated uranium is even more negative in weight than My referenced lead alloy. Also more expensive by far. The easy method of refinement was lost along with the "Rocky and Bullwinkl;e" show.

Haw.

Bill.
Old 03-16-2006, 09:17 PM
  #2215  
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you guys sound like you know your stuff, if you ever come out to the southwest deserts where there is a mine shaft every 100 yards, ill show ya some leaverite mines
Old 03-16-2006, 09:28 PM
  #2216  
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Hmmm, isn't that like Carvorite? I think HG Wells invented that stuff...

Hmmm, and there's a reason they call it 'leaverite' - You sell me a mine, I'll sell you a bridge.

Sorry, couldn't resist. Didn't mean to hijack the thread. Back to Saito's....

Bill, need a comment. A friend sold me a nice Saito 120 (old, but usable). He usually take good care of his engines, but for some reason he hogged out the mounting lug holes. I'm thinking about getting a new lower crankcase and just replacing the old one to have a 'stock' setup. Think it'll work? Mixing the old and the new crankcases, I mean?

Bob
Old 03-16-2006, 09:36 PM
  #2217  
William Robison
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Bob:

It will work fine. The early 120 engines used a slightly different case, but the difference was only the outer diameter of the rear bearing. ll other dimensions the same, including the crank shaft itself. Your new crank case will most likely acceopt the larger size. But you were planning to replace the bearings anyway, weren't you?

Bill.

PS: We really have spent enough time on "Left handed" physics. wr.
Old 03-17-2006, 12:08 AM
  #2218  
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PROP Question:

I've got a 91S in an Aeroworks 46-61 540T, weighing 7lbs 3 oz all-in, and would like to fly 3D with as big a prop as possible.

I've been flying precision aerobatics swinging a 14 x 7, and the plane responds great.

Would like to fly a 15x4 or larger for 3D.

Any thoughts?
Old 03-17-2006, 12:35 AM
  #2219  
William Robison
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See:

Thoughts? I think I just put you in as numnber 240.A 15x4W might do, I'd be inclined to try a 16x4W if you want to stay with a 4" pitch.

Bill.
Old 03-17-2006, 12:35 AM
  #2220  
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Having a degree in Geology, I can tell you leaverite is found mostly on beaches.
Old 03-17-2006, 12:45 AM
  #2221  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Bill:

I'm new to this 3D stuff. Is there a "best" size/pitch combo for this engine/plane (for a newbie)?

Is the idea to swing the biggest size prop to maximize airflow?

What's the benefit of using a higher pitch?

Thanks.
Old 03-17-2006, 01:00 AM
  #2222  
William Robison
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See:

The pitch is dependent on the rpm and the desired air speed. a 4" pitch on a two stroke running t 14K rpm will fly about 40 mph, but the same 4" on a four stroke at 10K rpm wont even make it to 30. But if we fly a 6" pitch on the 4s engine we're up around 40, staying up with the screaming 2s engines. And that puts us really close to your current 14x7.

The larger diameter of the prop, generally speaking, the better it will pull. So, having decided on a 6" pitch, and we know the engine pulls the 14x7, try a 15x6 and go from there.

Bill.
Old 03-17-2006, 01:30 AM
  #2223  
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Bill:

Thank you so much for the tutorial.

I'll give it a go with the 15 x 6 and let you know how she flys.

Steve
Old 03-17-2006, 08:27 AM
  #2224  
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When I first flew my Funtana, with 91S, a friend at the field had a whole tackle box full of wooden props. The 14X5 pro Zinger was the best compromise for me.
Old 03-17-2006, 09:18 AM
  #2225  
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Yes larger prop less pitch. The lesser pitch allows the prop to turn up faster. Thats important for 3D. for my 180 I just switched to a 17x6 from a 16 x 8 and it was a world of difference. Hovering and flat spins are now done with ease. The 17X6 was a 18x6 Masterairscrew that I cut down and balanced...


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