Welcome to Club SAITO !
06-29-2012, 02:58 PM
My Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Arlington,
TX
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
Sorry, I had therapy this AM and not allowed out in this heat this PM, Drs. orders. I'll be back.
Sorry, I had therapy this AM and not allowed out in this heat this PM, Drs. orders. I'll be back.
I can certainly understand that my friend. Take care of yourself and don't worry about this stuff.
RJ
06-29-2012, 06:42 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
flyingt5150, only thing I can think of why your 91 won't idle down with the throttle closed is possible an intake air leak. check the O-rings on the intake tube.
You may also want to double check the valve clearance.
p.s. I run a 13/8 3-blade MA on my 91. Your 14/9 sounds a bit too much.
You may also want to double check the valve clearance.
p.s. I run a 13/8 3-blade MA on my 91. Your 14/9 sounds a bit too much.
06-30-2012, 04:48 AM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hobbsy, as I always remind the wife, it's not the years, but the mileage that counts.
I've had a few turns around the block, more trips to the emergency room than I can count and still would not have traded some of the experience gained along the way for anything.
I've had a few turns around the block, more trips to the emergency room than I can count and still would not have traded some of the experience gained along the way for anything.
06-30-2012, 05:32 AM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Well, I still get projectitis, but have scaled them down a little, for example installing this C&H Ignition on my old 1.50 is a just right project when limited to 5 lbs lifting with the leaft arm. I will pretty that plate up and paint it black as soon as I get some NAPA black header paint, I tried the above mentioned Stove Black however it castor takes it right off and whatever you put it on gets slipstream streaks like an airliner. We can't have that. As old as this ignitons system is, 1997, it still makes the plug snap. I just hope the prop driver doesn't slip like it did on my 2.20.
07-01-2012, 12:12 AM
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hang in there, Hobbsy. I'm right behind you. Oops! Sorry about that rake handle there... (smile)
Ed Cregger
Ed Cregger
07-01-2012, 04:05 AM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
The word projectitis used above should probably read, "tinkeritis", I've tinkered with this 1.50 before, I had a brainstorm once where I moved the vent from the backplate to cam cover and blocked the rear vent. No oil ever came out of the vent I put on the cam cover, ever, I don't know where the oil went but it sure didn't come out of the cam cover vent. You cna seee the 8x32 bolt pluggling the hole in the cam cover. That stuff keeps me smilin.
07-01-2012, 01:06 PM
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Hamburg,
PA
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have an issue with the 120 I‘m working on. I put new bearings in and reassembled the engine. I adjusted the rockers for 0.002 clearances. The crankshaft is difficult to turn but if I back off on the cam cover bolts it becomes easer but still not what it should be. I did put the cam gasket in. It seems like the cam gear and crankshaft gears are jamming together. Has anyone had this type of problem?
07-01-2012, 02:39 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
smkrcflyer, unless the assembly sequence is incorrect not sure why there would be more drag. How was the crank spinning before anything else was installed? Don't forget until your valve train is active the valve are closed and you will create drag that way. You can depress the valve(s) down slightly to open them during turning the crank to release any differential.
Everyone, this is a copy of a post I started elsewhere recently and thought I would offer up the same to generate interest and comments:
Everyone, this is a copy of a post I started elsewhere recently and thought I would offer up the same to generate interest and comments:
I lucked out last fall, picking up a very low time Saito 125a laying amongst a few others at a swap meet for $60. I confirmed my quick and dirty assessment once I got home and opened it up. ALL that was wrong was a seriously cross-threaded glow plug hole.
Years ago when I was in the auto trade we used TIMESERTS to repair stripped plug threads in alloy heads, (remember them touting "100 thousand miles before the first tuneup"?). Anyway, I grew to trust them a lot and decided to have a boo to see if they had a kit available for the odd thread pitch and size we use here.
Worked out they do and I am looking to ordering one. Even with the cost I would be way ahead once the Saito is serviceable again, but that cost is a bit hard to justify for a single repair. There are several parts to the kit that are unique and only the inserts are reduced in number for each motor. I am looking to see if there is enough interest to offer my services and in that case will order extra inserts. I would think the best method would be to send me a PM to that effect.
NOTE: These are NOT Helicoils, but internally and externally threaded flanged inserts that permanently lock into place during installation. The heat transfer is much better and there is NO chance of the coil unthreading, (or worse, dropping into the cylinder during plug installation). Personally I do not think Helicoils are a good option for plug thread repair in alloy heads. The thermal expansion characteristics are too different. Consequently during every heat/cool cycle wear will occur. That wear increases the possibility the coil will unlock and turn within the alloy when the plug is removed or installed. Unfortunately during installation you would not be able to tell if that occurs and only minimal thread engagement occurs and some coils now project into the combustion chamber. Also, the heat transfer is not as good as it could be.
We use Helicoils in the aerospace industry and for the right app they are fine.
Years ago when I was in the auto trade we used TIMESERTS to repair stripped plug threads in alloy heads, (remember them touting "100 thousand miles before the first tuneup"?). Anyway, I grew to trust them a lot and decided to have a boo to see if they had a kit available for the odd thread pitch and size we use here.
Worked out they do and I am looking to ordering one. Even with the cost I would be way ahead once the Saito is serviceable again, but that cost is a bit hard to justify for a single repair. There are several parts to the kit that are unique and only the inserts are reduced in number for each motor. I am looking to see if there is enough interest to offer my services and in that case will order extra inserts. I would think the best method would be to send me a PM to that effect.
NOTE: These are NOT Helicoils, but internally and externally threaded flanged inserts that permanently lock into place during installation. The heat transfer is much better and there is NO chance of the coil unthreading, (or worse, dropping into the cylinder during plug installation). Personally I do not think Helicoils are a good option for plug thread repair in alloy heads. The thermal expansion characteristics are too different. Consequently during every heat/cool cycle wear will occur. That wear increases the possibility the coil will unlock and turn within the alloy when the plug is removed or installed. Unfortunately during installation you would not be able to tell if that occurs and only minimal thread engagement occurs and some coils now project into the combustion chamber. Also, the heat transfer is not as good as it could be.
We use Helicoils in the aerospace industry and for the right app they are fine.
07-01-2012, 03:04 PM
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Tacoma,
WA
Posts: 5,037
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Was the cam gasket an old one? it might be getting too compressed with age. The thickness is important on that particular gasket.
Ernie Misner
Ernie Misner
07-01-2012, 06:14 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
The guage that comes with Saitos is .004 and that is their recommended setting.
The guage that comes with Saitos is .004 and that is their recommended setting.
".... therefore, the gap must be set indefinitely close to ZERO while the engine is cold...... If attached gauge (t = 0.1mm) can be inserted gap becomes too large and adjustment must be made."
The manual for the Saito radials suggests the min gap be 0.03mm (0.0012"). This is a practical minimum to ensure there is in fact a gap, essential to maintaining compression for cold starting. After that, the gap can only get bigger.
Regards, RossG
radial1951
_____________
07-01-2012, 07:03 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
....No oil ever came out of the vent I put on the cam cover, ever, I don't know where the oil went but it sure didn't come out of the cam cover vent...
....No oil ever came out of the vent I put on the cam cover, ever, I don't know where the oil went but it sure didn't come out of the cam cover vent...
BTW, did excess oil from the crankcase ever come out the vent when it was on the back cover?
The oil that gets past the piston ring MUST go somewhere. In your case, the only way out is the clearance between the vave stems and guides. I'm not sure that would work on a brand new engine with almost no valve guide clearance. Without a crankcase vent, the pumping action of a single cylinder engine may result in a positive crankcase pressure, actually inhibiting oil flow past the ring(!) or pushing it back past the ring(?). Hmm. Very interesting.... Maybe you should check the condition of the cams etc.
Regards RossG
radial1951
_____________
07-02-2012, 04:06 AM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Yes sir a slow steady stream comes out ot the factory back plate vent, here is a shot of a 2.20 I used to own and the typical residual oil level. Just scale it up or down for other fourstrokes according to size.
07-02-2012, 07:11 PM
Senior Member
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: jeffie8696
Update.
Pheonix Models Sonic Low Wing + Saito FA40 + MA 10X7 + SIG Syn Plus 15% = AWESOME
Just my opinion mind you. [img][/img]
Update.
Pheonix Models Sonic Low Wing + Saito FA40 + MA 10X7 + SIG Syn Plus 15% = AWESOME
Just my opinion mind you. [img][/img]
What RPMs are you seeing? .40 is my favorite Saito. Bullet proof.
07-02-2012, 07:15 PM
Senior Member
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
11,100 -seems a little high for me but its a small engine and I have heard of people running them much higher so I am not sweating it.
Igenerally prop my .50 at 10,000 static to protect the valvetrain.
Igenerally prop my .50 at 10,000 static to protect the valvetrain.
