EMVIN

Thanks for the welcome.. I currently have a Saito 180 and 220. The 220 never used. I have always used
cool power 30% full synthetic heli fuel and the engine performs very well. Are ther any adverse effects that I should know about?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

EMVIN:

Castor oil in the fuel will greatly reduce cam and tappet wear.

Keeping the valve clearance at 0.0015" to 0.002" also helps a lot.

Bill.

crazy4planes2000

Me thinks you are going into this too scientifically. If my planes are nose heavy I simply use lighter fuel.
Garry (crazy4planes2000)

loughbd

Actually that's not true. Raising the length by an inch while lowering the pitch will keep the RPM about the same . What you gain is better acceleration but you lose top speed. Raising the pitch and shortening the length increases top speed but acceration sufferes. That's why spped guys use little short props with huge pitch. Using your reasoning, a zero pitch prop 6 feet long would turn infinite rpm and that ain't true.

tukkus

My Feedback: (2)

does anyone have any RPM's at WOT with the 1.25?...... and what fuel and prop are you using

Jack211

Bill, can you speak for a moment on the topic of the carbureator's position relative to the centerline of the fuel tank? How sensitive is that position?

My Saito 1.0 is mounted, inverted, on a Can Do 60, with an inch of difference, BELOW the centerline of the tank. What can I expect from that position?

Is there an easy way to tell if the 1.0 can suck enough to do the job. Is it the low end of the throttle or the high end which will have a problem? I have a GP fueler, too, through which the fuel must go to get to the carb. THAT'S even with the carb. I haven't many hours on it, but it's already crapped out in my P-51D (can't recall the relationship, carb to fuel tank)--and once in the Can Do 60. To remount the engine or the tank will be a major effort. What to do?

Thanks,

Jack

gjeffers

if you want the 100 to run perfect with the 60 size do Jack, then you either need a cline, iron bay regulator, orrrrr do thisthe centerline is off so much you will have flooding probs upright and when you go inverted you will go lean.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Jack:

I'm afraid Gary has called it.

With a high tank or a low tank the change in fuel "Head" will be the same from full to empty, but the difference between upright and inverted is much greater, and few engines can stand it without help.

My pet is still a pump with a remote tank, but a pump is no help for a high one as they don't restrict forward flow - it will still dump fuel when sitting. Runs right through.

For satisfactory operation with suction delivery or muffler pressure the limit is about 3/8" high or low, spray bar to the centerline of the tank.

The Cline and Iron Bay regulators work very nicely, and since they are "Demand" type regulators they will not allow the fuel to siphon. But they cost about twice the price of the Perry pump.

Another thing I like very much is the Du-Bro fueling valve, your Great Planes fueler is similar. Most problems come from sticking the probe in with a bit of grit on it, this will cut the o-ring seal and give an air leak. So long as you are careful they will last a long time with no trouble.

Sorry I have no miracle cure for the high tank. It's either regulator time or change the engine position.

Bill.

loughbd

Fuel does not flow through a Perry Micro Oscillating pump. Only flows when pump is vibrating which only happens when engine is running. It only delivers the amount of fuel the engine needs based on the speed of the engine vibrations.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Actually it does flow through them and easier than you'd think, that little white membrane one way valve offers very little resistance to fuel flow or it couldn't work.

Jack211

Thanks, Gary and Bill. But, Gary, I don't "see" the pump in your picture--nor how you fill the tank with the cowl on. I BELIEVE I saw a picture of yours, early on, where the pump was shown. Can't recall how you filled the tank. Suggestions?

I'll research from whom to buy the Cline and Iron Bay regulators. I can only HOPE that they have an external port for fueling.

Thanks, again,

Jack

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Jack:

You can still use your fueling valve, it will go in the feed line between the tank and the regulator.

Cline: http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/
Don't have a URL for Iron Bay, sorry.

Bill.

loughbd

You better check again. There is no little white membrane. There is a little ball that moves back and forth as the pump vibrates. When it's vibrating it delivers the amount of fuel the engine needs and no more. Running is the only time you worry about a high level of fuel flooding the engine and it won't let more fuel flow than needed. When not running, you keep the nose high and fuel won't flow.

gjeffers

here is a pic of the cline Jack and i used both the easy fueler and fuel dots, and after using all three setups i like the one im using now, just pull the line off the carb and fuel(horizontal mount) and its lighter also and runs great in all attitudes.

to fill with the easy fueler i had it mounted on the other side with a line to the going to the cline on one side and the other went to the tank.

to fill with the dots you just "T" into the fuel line between the tank and cline, and "T" into the pressure line between the muffler and the tank, you open this line to vent the tank because you have a check valve in the line right at the muffler pressure tap.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Jack:

Here's Iron Bay: http://www.ironbaymodelcompany.com/W...cessories.html

Bill.

TimC

Jack, you can't see the regulator in this shot, just the bracket. It does show the tee fittings for fueling and to vent the tank. If you don't remember to pull the plug on the pressure side first, you get a pretty good hosing with fuel when you pull the fill plug.

Jack211

Wow, Gary. LOL Looks like a plumber's holiday. I'm up for it.

Jack211

Gary, who sells the Cline Regulator? The Iron Bay (thanks for the link, Bill) is $44, a one time investment, I would suppose.

J.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Jack:

I posted Cline's URL on the last page, but here it is again:
http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/

I know it says "Billsroom" but it really is Cline and associates.

Bill.

loughbd

There is no little white membrane one way valve in the Peryy Oscillating pump. There is a little ball that moves back and forth. While it is operating only a set amount of fuel can move through it and the tank height has no effect. Take one apart and look. I have.

loughbd

All of my Saitos that don't have a Perry Pump on them have two hoses. One to the carb and one to the muffler pressure tap. Don't need anymore than that.

see_e_oh

My Feedback: (4)

Iron Bay URL

http://www.ironbaymodelcompany.com/W...cessories.html

EMVIN

I do know that the 16X8 was turning at about 9500 and the 17x6 turns at 8700+/- RPM. The difference in pitch would be similar to changing gears in a car, which is pretty much what your saying. A lesser pich is like starting in first or second gear opposed to a deeper pitch. There is more acceleration. In 3D that's what is desired. The larger prop create's better air flow. Most 3D is performed at low end speed or full stall. That quick burst of acceleration is what its about....

Harleyflyer

My Feedback: (9)

I just got my first Saito engine. It is a 100 and will be going on an OMP Katana V2 70. I plan on breaking it in and running it on heli fuel. I am assuming that 18% oil content is sufficient? Is this a correct assumption?

Thanks in advance.

Harleyflyer

My Feedback: (9)

Sorry, but one other question that I meant to put in my previous post was related to the prop size. If I am running the Saito 100 on heli fuel will it be able to swing an APC 16x4?

Thanks again.