FNQFLYER

Hey old Fart, good luck with the sparkie.  I still haven't worked up the gts to get my 2 going yet (a FG20 and a FG36).  They are destined to a couple of projects an Austats Storch and the Swordfish.
If you live near hin contact Paul Baartz re the spark ignition thing us Old Timers have a wealth of knowledge (and sore heads from brick walls) in this area and I am sure that if he doesn't know he can / will point you in the right direction
With the new format for the the Nationals, it would appear as if (fingers crossed) our O/T Nationals might be at Canowindra at Easter (so the rumour goes).  So we now have to consider a new plot / campaign centred around a Saito 65, and a 56 with maybe a 30 trown in.  Model kits are being dusted off and the Ys is getting another look.  But the best part about this is the Stinson project (Saito 115 in a SR7) is going to get some work and an airing.  Could never complete in Scale because it conflicted with the O/T events but now well look out world in 2013.
Maybe we might see you over this side for some of the comps??

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The APC 15x6 is a great prop for some 125's.

Rudolph Hart

Do you think they should run a bigger prop when well tuned? my 115 easily pulls a 15x8 in a midget mustang given it's a slippery aeroplane.They arn't torquers with that prop but the engine sounds good as it slows down at full throttle after a steep climb and i think the head temps climb rapidly when you do that.

Rudolph Hart

Thanks for the good wishes mate,from all i've read so far i'll need it.Hope your fg36 goes well,as a side note i get 8500 with a 18x6 out of the glo version no worries.Wow dunno about a ys engine but the little 30 saito does more for a big airframe than i expected.What prop will you be running on the 115 in the stinson? yes will be going east next year to watch you hackers having a go

SrTelemaster150

It's good to see that the 125 has a smaller bore & longer stroke than the 120. More TQ & power @ a lower RPM range.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dan, a lot of guys came on here disappointed in the 1.25 because they wouldn't turn 10,000 rpm, however most discovered that it would turn big lumber at 9,000, much better in my book.

SrTelemaster150

Larger props = more thrust, more pitch = more speed @ a given RPM. I''ll go for TQ over RPMs.

Also, the high TQ engine will unload a bigger prop in the air so the performance on the ground might not reflect the full performance in the air.

My FA91 was turning 10,500 W/a 15X4 on the ground. Too close to the 11,000 maximum RPM for me. I went to a 15X5 to bring static RPM down to 9700 to allow some cushion for more RPM W/O over revving once the airplane got up to speed in the air.

SrTelemaster150

Breather Nipple Thread?

I have a spare set of 300TTDP pump check valves.



I want to screw the inlet valve into the rear cover, then drill & tap the flat side of the old style FA150 cam housing for the outlet.

This will kill 2 birds W/1 stone:

I will make a pressure regulating needle out of an old spray bar so I can use positive pressure for the fuel tank. That will allow me to mount my tank over the CG in my 25% CAP 232. CG will then remain constant regardless of fuel load. The pump will allow consistant fuel delivery from the remote tank location.

The secondary benefit will be positive oiling of the cam lobes/tappets.

Anyone know what the thread size/pitch is? It seems to be a tapered pipe thread.

rockin daddy

My Feedback: (32)

Hey Sr Tele:

If you mail the fitting to me @ Charlie Erb 65 Willock Road Fredericktown, PA 15333. I will send you a drill and the correct metric tap. I know there should be one in my machine shop.

Will measure it with my metric pitch gages. I do a bunch of metric work.

Sure like your idea for the positive even fuelpressure to the carb.

Regards,

Rockin Daddy

Rudolph Hart

What size and make cap 232 are you flying with the 300?? cheers pete

SrTelemaster150

The 300 is going in a 1/3 scale SIG 104" WS Spacewalker.

The 25% Hanger-9 CAP 232 will be getting a souped-up high compression, pumped [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11170233/tm.htm]FA180HCP[/link]

You can see the framed up Spacewalker behind the CAP 232 in this picture.

Rudolph Hart

That's interesting and the cap looks to be about 72?" wingspan,the standard 180 would rip it's nuts off.

SrTelemaster150

I think the WS is 73".

Im looking for about 3 1/2HP on 40% nitro R/C car fuel W/the FA180HCP.

It should have some awesome vertical performance.

If it proves to be too much for the CAP, I'll run it on 15% Cool Power & put in the Dynaflite PT-19 in the back ground. It had the EI FA150 that I converted to FA180HCP bolted to the firewall. I was going to use my new standard FA180 W/EI in it. It's pretty heavy W/all the scale detail I added to it. The FA150 on EI was adequate, pulling it through nice BIG loops on power. 1 more HP pulling on it would be cool.

Rudolph Hart

That looks like it would be fun to fly,sound included.It's good fun when you have to compensate for the prop torque.Post a vid if you can

SrTelemaster150

It's the same size thread as the standard Saito breather nipple for medium to large sigle cylinder engines. FA62, FA65, FA72, FA82, FA91S, FA100, FA115, FA120, FA125, FA150, FA150, FA180 & FA220.

Part# SAI6519

I can send you a nipple, but if you have one handy we can save transit time.

As far as the pump system?

One could accomplish the same affect W/simple inline check valves W/tubing. For some reason I ended up W/an extra set of the factory "pump" check valves.

You must also make a pressure bleed off similar to this.


Look closely & you will see that what is essentially is a spraybar W/a "T" fitting screwed onto the venturi end.

That is how I plan to make a metering bleed off. I can slide fuel tubing over the cat's eye of the spray bar W/a simple "T" tubing junction fitting. The fuel inlet barb of the spray bar will be the bleed outlet tube.

If you don't have a bleed off, pressure will build up in the tank & it would actually get to a point where the tank would blowup if the engine didn't flood out 1st. I tried a check valve in a simple muffler tap once & even that set-up would flood out when returning to idle from WOT.

The system works very well on the dual carb FA300TTDP. I think they use it due to the dual carbs being on top of the engine making it impossible to have the fuel tank centerline even W/the spray bar.

orthobird

My Feedback: (1)

i totally agree with you. i had engine out of tune big time, hopefully, it will not be damaged from 3 to 4 flights or so that it was running lean. on the last flight, which was just awesome, i had turned the LSN out and the HSN was out by 4 1/2 turns. on the previous flights, the HSN was out only 2 1/2 turns. unknown to me, for this engine, this equals way too lean.
on the ground, WOT was not impressive, and it was turning about 8500 rpm, within 1 minute from turning it on.
then, once it took off, i noticed the nice smoke (exhaust) trail that was white, and i had missed in last several flights. however, this time, once up in sky, it was slowly, but obviously, beginning to increase rpm. by about 6 minutes of flight, the trail of smoke was less obvious, and the plane was moving, i mean, really moving fast. at least 115 mph. looking forward to next flight to see how she does.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

My 125 is a dog until you get the ls tuned right. Then, it is a great engine.

Rudolph Hart

Hi ortho hope you hav'nt damaged anything.The 125 like all others should be around two turns out on the main needle after you peak it properly and then the low speed to suit re transition and to a certain extent the idle as well.

orthobird

My Feedback: (1)

i think that means i have to open LSN up more, so that there is more over all fuel flow, and then decrease the HSN to get it right? i know it is not as easy as it sounds. but it means more tinkering. the problem is that i have a cowl, and i would have to remove it to reset the LSN, but i know the engine will run different with the cowl on as compared to off.

GroundsForDivorce

I have a question about my Saito FA 72B. I have searched all over but can't seem to find out what I am looking at on this engine. It has the normal low speed and high speed needle valves, but on the top of the carb there is some other adjustment screw, which I took the liberty of drawing an arrow to, which is mainly for my sake in case I can't find it in the future, but I digress. This part is not identified in the owners manual, though appears to be sketched into the exploded view of the carb, but there is not a part number. It's a phillips head screw within a spring. I apologize if this question has been asked previously, I could not find an answer here, nor elsewhere on the danged ole internet. Any help would be greatly appreciated. As for now, I plan to pretend as if it doesn't exist. Thanks much.

jeffie8696

Cant see the photo for some reason but you describe the idle adjustment screw.

jeffie8696

Cant see the photo for some reason but you describe the idle adjustment screw.

jeffie8696

Cant see the photo for some reason but you describe the idle adjustment screw.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

That is the idle speed adjustment screw, if you set your idle speed with the radio just back the screw out until the barrel will close all the way. Don't back it out too far as it is also the barrel locator screw.

airborne14830

I have a saito 100 turning a 14x8 APC prop. Ran about threee tanks for proper break-in. The most I have gotten on the high end is 7800 RPM and the low end idles nicely at 3200 RPM. My concern is that I thought I should be running around 8500 as minimum on the high end. Also, i have the engine in a Pulse XT60.