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Old 02-05-2013, 07:09 PM
  #24151  
mike early
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I saw a torque-curve for the Saito 125 in a magazine in an early review, but I could never find it again. I've never seen any other Saito's....
Old 02-06-2013, 04:28 AM
  #24152  
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ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

Not on the P51 I restored / worked on. Constant speed prop and the wings would fall off before you lunched the engine. Assuming you weren't stretching the limits eg war power (which was a number of plus 100% max RPM) or you are racing it with exotic fuels. Most engine failures on modern engines are due to prop governor problems or just plain structural failure within the engine.Re off load in flight listen to a YS 53 or 63 at max RPM on the ground and then listen for the ''upshift'' in rpm at about 50feet (or less). We counted on this in Duration to get that little bit of grunt to get out of ground effect into clean air for the climb. (The climb was at 87.5 degrees, ideal, for 28 seconds engine run, this usually gave about 1, to 1500 feet. And for reference the 65 Saito is not far behind on a 32 second engine run)
Note don't confuse prop rpm with actual a/c speed.
What do results W/a full scale constant speed prop have to do W/out fixed pitch propellers?
Old 02-06-2013, 02:22 PM
  #24153  
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He quoted the prop on a P51 as an example.  With regards to this discussion IF you really want to get technical about engines and props I would refer youto an industry program called Piano. I have used this prgram to determine the theoritical performance of various full sized a/c when applied to specific tasks AND I have used the same program to determine suitability of various designs for competitions I was involved in.
NOW I just play with the available data given by the manufacturer, decide by using the MK1 eyeball if I like a model and if I am competing I usually acquire 2 of engines and hand full of props and go for it.  No more over analysising just having heaps more fun.
Old 02-06-2013, 02:27 PM
  #24154  
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Mike, if you can access the Aussie magazine AIRBORNE (past issus) you will find a large number of tests of various Saitos by a gy caled Brian Winch.  He usually publishes in one form or another the data you require.
Old 02-06-2013, 05:37 PM
  #24155  
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ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

I would dispute the fact that staic thrust measurements are meaningless. On 1 : ! a/c staic trust was always the target thrust requirement on engines runs be they piston, gas turbine, (either jet or prop) or rocket engines.
With model a/c type engines you can get the engine to ''unload'' to varying degrees depending on the design of the prop cuff, blade root design and the general blade design. Best and most obvious example to us oldies in the Electra L188 / P3C. Both had the same engine but look at the blade, horses for courses, as similar thing can be seen with the various varients of the C130 / L100 series a/c.
As for all of this, I tune with a tacho, run the engine according to the requirement of the day and have the spares to fix any broken bits. Makes for a more enjoyable day especially when you come out on top at a competition and you take home the a/c fully assembled still.
Yeah, but I said static rpms. I know you can use those numbers for whatever baselines you want. All props become more efficient with each knot/mph/kph you gain. It's not a matter of getting 'unloading'. It's going to happen. I don't distrust the valve springs on Saitos enough to really worry, but I keep a grand of spare rpm just because.

Nice planes you refer to. The Electras were crashing when I was growing up. If you can catch a Canadian TV production called Ice Pilots over there you'll get to see Electras in operation in northern Canada along with DC-4s and C-46s.

Tachs are good things.
Old 02-06-2013, 06:55 PM
  #24156  
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The  mob I worked (Ansett) for did the only LEAP mods outside the Lockheed factory.  That was the engine uptilt mod, big thing which stopped the tip whirl mode which was the thing that caused the wings to tear off.  I really liked the Electra, the B727 series and the B737 classic a/c.  I remember my time as an apprentice back in the 60's and all the changes that happened during that time.  I saw the total change in aviation from piston to computerised "modern" a/c just as I have seen the same thing in modelling.
  I guess I have been lucky.
I use tacho's and all the other you beaut gadgets to make my models fly well and then depending on my mood i just"wing it" which is the great thing about thios hobby.  I am working through a collection od NIB engines, and kits (both full and short) and I have an occasional brain fade and acquire an ARF but all in all the world is good and when we get rid of the "Red Witch" all will be well in the land of Oz. 
I have never had a problem with valve springs on Saitos, even when we rung their necks with 50% nitro etc but it was white knuckle time when we did it though.  I think a worn engine with matched springs and new retainers is as best as you can get to cope with the upper limit stresses.  Now YS's though don't like a lot of valve bounce but that is another story.
Like you I wind the rpm back a bit (usually with fuel mix and nitro content) and any fuel I use has the proper amount of good oil in it.  All part of the process.  BTB my mate literally wore out (his estimate 200+ hours) a 65 running at competition rpms etc for at least 90% of its life.  Not bad huh.   
Old 02-07-2013, 06:32 AM
  #24157  
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Hi mate,are you missing a finger,or do you hurry when you type?
Old 02-07-2013, 07:51 AM
  #24158  
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Hello everyone,

First off I would like to ask for membership in this club I have a Saito 72 on an ultrastick and I love it. The engine has a ding in the pushrod tube and I was having a hard time finding the best way to replace it, if this has been asked already I apologize and ask for the thread. Thanks for your help
Old 02-07-2013, 10:34 AM
  #24159  
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ORIGINAL: stockr20

Hello everyone,

First off I would like to ask for membership in this club I have a Saito 72 on an ultrastick and I love it. The engine has a ding in the pushrod tube and I was having a hard time finding the best way to replace it, if this has been asked already I apologize and ask for the thread. Thanks for your help

You'll need to remove the rocker covers & loosen the cylinder base screws so you can raise the cylinder a little. No need to remove the cylinder completely.
Old 02-07-2013, 11:52 AM
  #24160  
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ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150


ORIGINAL: stockr20

Hello everyone,

First off I would like to ask for membership in this club I have a Saito 72 on an ultrastick and I love it. The engine has a ding in the pushrod tube and I was having a hard time finding the best way to replace it, if this has been asked already I apologize and ask for the thread. Thanks for your help

You'll need to remove the rocker covers & loosen the cylinder base screws so you can raise the cylinder a little. No need to remove the cylinder completely.
Thank you for the help SrTelemaster
Old 02-07-2013, 02:24 PM
  #24161  
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Old Fart, I have one finger that got chewed up by a Saito 65 and another I dislocated when I "subdued" a passenger in the taxi I drive occassionally.  Why do you ask???
Old 02-08-2013, 05:05 PM
  #24162  
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It's just the old aussie 'black' sense of humour coming out in me
Old 02-08-2013, 06:11 PM
  #24163  
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ORIGINAL: blw

New member:

803 Ricochet59
I must have missed the post with my new member number. Thanks - jw0847 - John
Old 02-08-2013, 07:56 PM
  #24164  
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Ok old fart does your DNA show a level of "black humour" in excess of 30-%????
The spell checker doesn't work here and curse upon my soul I have become addicted to it.  Also been "modifying the bosses shop so am more than a little 'Weary"  however there is a sports ARF that is slowly progressing each day with fixed tasks being carried out each day and thus the back up in the shed is being cleared.  Are you coming over to the "cultured" side of the continent over Easter???  If so you can come see out super Saito's in action at Canowindra at the Easter NSW SAM Champs.
Old 02-09-2013, 08:25 AM
  #24165  
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John,- you are #805 jw0847
Old 02-09-2013, 04:26 PM
  #24166  
mike early
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Here's a Hanger9 Sundowner 36 with a Saito 82 turning an APC 11x12 prop on Wildcat 15%. Static RPMS are about 9750. To keep weight down and increase Saito Sound, I am using the the 3" straight pipe exhaust from a radial Saito. It's the loudest 4-stroke I've heard, although I use straight pipe exhausts on most of my Saitos.

This plane is the fastest plane I've ever flown, even at half throttle. Tomorrow I will try to talk someone into holding my Bushnell Velocity Speed Sports Radar Gun. It's scary because the plane must be flying almost straight at them. I usually have volunteers stand right behind me with the gun. It's a rush to say the least.
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:50 PM
  #24167  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Looks good mike will be interested to see what happens,know anyone who can video it???

Are you running tank pressure?
Old 02-09-2013, 05:00 PM
  #24168  
mike early
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I buy the radial exhaust with the tap.



Never had any issues with pressure, even on long vertical runs.


Buddy says he will bring his video camera tomorrow. I'll do some low passes.
Old 02-09-2013, 05:34 PM
  #24169  
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I have a 200 triple so will look at the exhaust stubs i removed to fit the keleo ring.Looking forward to the vid
Old 02-09-2013, 06:24 PM
  #24170  
mike early
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Does the 200R3 come with the flex pipes or the hard pipes?
Old 02-10-2013, 12:24 AM
  #24171  
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Both i think hav'nt looked yet good luck withy the flight
Old 02-10-2013, 06:47 AM
  #24172  
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Guys, I need help with my 82 carb. I bought it used with a bent spraybar. I bought a replacement and tried to remove the old one, but it won't budge. I removed all the other parts, the barrel, the fuel inlet nipple, and the locknut on the spraybar. But the spraybar is in there real tight, I even used a vice grip to try to loosen it[&o]

Is there a trick to loosen it? I can tell, but is there something inside the carb body that is holding it in place? Or do I need to heat the carb?

Thanks.
Old 02-10-2013, 07:40 AM
  #24173  
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ORIGINAL: hsukaria

Is there a trick to loosen it? I can tell, but is there something inside the carb body that is holding it in place? Or do I need to heat the carb?

Thanks.
Yes, it sounds like you will need to heat the carb body. I replaced the spraybar on my Saito 65 with the improved version and it was a pressed in fit. Just be careful not damage your carb body if the spraybar is bent.

Old 02-10-2013, 01:03 PM
  #24174  
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With the carb barrel removed place the carb body in a vice with the open end up against a piece of hard wood and simply close the vice against the spraybar and push it inward. It doesn't need to go very far before it will come loose.
Old 02-10-2013, 02:53 PM
  #24175  
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thanks for the advice, I got it loose and removed. Then I had difficulty keeping the spraybar slot pointed downstream as I tightened the locknut. I kept turning the whole assembly until it all got tight and lined up.

After assembling the whole carb, I started turning the high speed needle in and discovered that it is really tight. I couldn't check that before because the spraybar was bent. But now, I see that the HS needle and the HSN handle are not concentric. That causes the HSN to be very hard to turn. Looks like I will have to order a new HSN. Another lesson learned: If the spraybar is bent, the HSN is likely tweaked also.


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